Hinge cutting is a specialized forestry technique designed to improve habitat for various wildlife species, particularly deer. This practice involves partially cutting a live tree trunk and gently manipulating the tree to fall horizontally, remaining attached to the stump by a narrow strip of bark and wood tissue. The goal is to position the canopy closer to the ground, providing immediate cover and accessible food sources without killing the tree entirely. This guide outlines the necessary steps for safely and effectively executing a hinge cut.
The Purpose of Hinge Cutting for Wildlife Habitat
Hinge cutting serves as a rapid and cost-effective method of Timber Stand Improvement (TSI) that immediately alters the forest structure. Dropping the tree canopy to ground level creates dense, horizontal cover often absent in mature, vertically monotonous woodlots. This low-level structure provides immediate sanctuary and security for ground-dwelling animals and ungulates.
The primary ecological benefit is the creation of accessible browse and thermal cover. The partially severed tree remains alive because the cambium layer, which transports water and nutrients, is left mostly intact. This allows the tree to continue producing leaves and buds, placing fresh, nutrient-rich forage within reach of wildlife like deer, who cannot typically access food above five or six feet. The low canopy also functions as thermal cover, shielding animals from harsh winter winds and heavy snow or providing shade during warm periods.
Hinging trees opens the forest canopy, allowing more sunlight to reach the forest floor. This influx of light stimulates the growth of native grasses, forbs, and shrubs previously suppressed by shade, increasing biodiversity and long-term food availability in the understory. Strategically placed hinge cuts can also be used to funnel animal movement, create visual barriers, and establish secure bedding areas, concentrating wildlife activity in desirable locations.
Essential Tools and Safety Protocols
Executing a hinge cut safely requires careful planning and specialized equipment, as the work involves partially felling trees with a running chainsaw. Personal Protective Equipment (PPE) is required and must include:
- Chainsaw chaps made of cut-resistant material.
- A forestry helmet with a face screen and hearing protection.
- Steel-toed boots.
Wearing bright, high-visibility clothing is also recommended, especially when working with others.
The primary tool is a reliable chainsaw with a bar length appropriate for the tree diameter. Due to the unpredictable nature of partially cut trees, a felling lever or felling wedges should be on hand. These tools help guide the tree’s fall and prevent the saw bar from becoming pinched. A felling lever, which provides mechanical leverage, is often preferred for smaller diameter hinge cuts.
Safety protocols dictate that you should never operate a chainsaw alone, ensuring help is available in case of an accident. Before starting any cut, always clear an escape route at a 45-degree angle away from the planned direction of the fall. The height of the cut should be kept relatively low, ideally between knee and waist height. Higher cuts increase the risk of the trunk snapping unpredictably or “barber-chairing” and causing severe injury. Be aware of the tree’s crown and any surrounding dead branches that could fall during the process.
Selecting the Right Trees and Timing
Selecting the appropriate trees is important for both safety and maximizing habitat benefit. Aim for smaller-diameter trees, ideally between 6 and 10 inches in diameter at breast height (DBH), as these are more flexible and safer to control. Attempting to hinge-cut trees larger than 10 inches DBH is discouraged due to the danger of uncontrolled splitting or falling.
Preferred species typically have flexible wood that bends rather than snaps, such as:
- Soft maples (red and sugar maple).
- Ironwood.
- Beech.
- Certain poplars.
Species with brittle wood, such as ash or birch, tend to split easily, resulting in a clean break rather than a living hinge. Avoid cutting valuable mast-producing trees like mature oaks or hickories. Focus instead on low-value, shade-tolerant, or invasive species that suppress the forest understory.
The optimal timing for hinge cutting is late winter or early spring, before the full flush of spring sap flow. Cutting during this dormant period minimizes shock to the tree and prepares it to push new growth at ground level once the growing season begins. While cutting can occur at any time, working when the temperature is above freezing reduces the likelihood of the wood being brittle and snapping instead of bending.
Step-by-Step Execution of the Hinge Cut
The technique of creating a hinge cut modifies standard directional tree felling, focusing on leaving a connected strip of wood. First, determine the tree’s natural lean and the desired direction of fall. Ensure the tree will drop to a height accessible to wildlife, usually between two and four feet off the ground. This direction should align with where cover is most needed or where the canopy needs opening.
Next, create a directional felling notch, also known as a face cut, on the side of the tree facing the intended direction of fall. This notch involves making a horizontal cut approximately one-third of the way into the trunk, followed by a sloping cut that meets the horizontal cut. This allows the tree to pivot as it falls. The cut should be made at a manageable height, often slightly lower than a typical felling cut, around waist level.
The hinge cut is the final, and most delicate, saw pass, made on the opposite side of the tree from the felling notch. This back cut is made slightly above the horizontal line of the face cut, but it must not meet the notch. The goal is to saw two-thirds to three-quarters of the way through the trunk, leaving a continuous strip of wood and bark, known as the hinge, that is one to two inches thick. This remaining hinge acts as a flexible tether, controlling the fall and preventing the trunk from twisting or breaking off.
Once the back cut is nearly complete, the tree is gently pushed over, often with a felling lever or by hand, to ensure a slow, controlled descent. The tree should bend at the hinge, laying the crown down horizontally without severing the connection to the stump. If the tree resists, a plastic wedge can be tapped into the back cut to apply pressure and guide the fall, ensuring the tree rests at a low angle to provide maximum cover and accessible browse.