“Heeling in” is a straightforward technique used to provide temporary storage for bare root trees, shrubs, and plants. This method involves loosely burying the roots to prevent desiccation, which can rapidly kill the plant’s fine root hairs. The primary goal is to maintain the plant’s state of dormancy and keep the root system moist and protected until it can be moved to its permanent location.
Context for Temporary Storage
Bare root trees are shipped without soil around their roots during their dormant season, typically from late fall through early spring. While planting immediately upon arrival is always recommended, circumstances often prevent this ideal timing. Delayed planting is necessary when a permanent site is not yet prepared, or if the delivery date conflicts with unexpected severe weather.
Conditions like a sudden hard freeze, heavy snow, or waterlogged ground make proper planting impossible, forcing a temporary holding period. Heeling in is a better alternative than storing trees in a garage or shed for more than a few days. It provides a stable, cool, and moist environment, ensuring the tree remains healthy and dormant until conditions are favorable for final planting.
Preparing the Heeling In Location
Selecting an appropriate location is the first step in creating a successful temporary holding spot. The site should be sheltered from high winds and full sun exposure, ideally offering consistent shade to maintain cool, stable temperatures. Well-draining soil is required to prevent waterlogging, which can suffocate roots and lead to rot. If the native soil is heavy clay or the ground is frozen, heeling into a large container filled with compost is an effective alternative.
Once the location is chosen, excavate a trench wide and deep enough to comfortably accommodate the entire root system without cramping or bending. The trench should be dug about a foot deep, with one side vertical and the opposite side cut at a gentle, sloping angle (around 45 degrees). This sloping side supports the tree trunks and allows for easier placement and root arrangement. Native soil can be used for backfilling, or a mixture of soil with peat moss or compost can provide a lighter medium.
Step-by-Step Installation
Before placing the trees in the trench, inspect and hydrate the roots, especially if they appear dry upon arrival. Soaking the entire root mass in tepid water for an hour or two helps the roots reabsorb moisture. Do not leave roots soaking for more than a few hours, as prolonged submersion deprives them of oxygen and causes damage. Remove any plastic wrapping or packing material before installation.
Lay the trees into the prepared trench, positioning them against the sloping side. The root flare—where the roots meet the trunk—should be level with or slightly below the surrounding soil line. Multiple trees can be grouped closely, but ensure individual root systems are not tightly bundled or intertwined.
Carefully backfill the trench, gently working the soil or compost mixture around the roots. Eliminate all air pockets within the root zone, as these spaces allow roots to dry out or introduce cold air. Lightly shaking the trunk while backfilling helps the soil medium settle and distribute evenly among the root structure.
The backfilling material must completely cover all roots up to the root collar. The graft union—the swollen area on the lower trunk—should remain exposed above the temporary soil line. Gently tamp the soil down with a foot or hand to ensure solid contact, but avoid aggressive compacting. Immediately water the entire heeled-in area thoroughly to further settle the soil and establish moisture contact with the root hairs.
Monitoring and Final Planting
After installation, the temporary storage site requires consistent monitoring to ensure the trees remain healthy. Maintain adequate moisture levels in the soil medium, keeping it damp but never saturated to prevent fungal issues and root rot. Bare root trees can successfully remain heeled in for several weeks, sometimes up to two months, provided they remain dormant.
Watch the tree’s buds for signs of swelling or color change, which indicates the tree is beginning to break dormancy. The temporary storage period must conclude before the tree starts to actively grow, as transplanting a leafing-out tree significantly reduces its chance of survival. When it is time to plant, carefully lift the trees from the trench, gently removing the soil from the roots. Inspect for any damaged roots or signs of desiccation before transitioning the tree to its permanent planting hole.