The daffodil (Narcissus) bulb is a reliable spring performer, and lifting them is sometimes necessary to maintain plant health or change a landscape design. Daffodil bulbs are typically harvested to divide overcrowded clumps that produce fewer flowers, or to move them to a new location. This process prepares the bulb for dormancy, ensuring a vibrant display of blooms the following spring.
Determining the Optimal Time for Lifting
The timing for removing daffodil bulbs is dictated by the plant’s natural energy cycle. Wait until the foliage has completely died back and turned yellow or brown, which typically occurs six to eight weeks after the flowers fade. This visual cue signals that the leaves have finished their work.
During this period, green foliage actively photosynthesizing creates sugars and starches. This energy is transferred and stored within the bulb, fueling the flower bud for the next year’s bloom. Digging up the bulbs while the leaves are still green prematurely cuts off this energy supply.
Interrupting this natural transfer results in a weakened bulb that may produce smaller flowers or fail to bloom. Waiting until the foliage is fully withered ensures the bulb has maximized its stored nutrients and is ready to enter summer dormancy.
Techniques for Excavation and Cleaning
Once the foliage has died back, excavation begins. Use a garden fork or spade for careful lifting without damaging the bulbs. Insert the tool several inches away from the withered stem, digging wide and deep to avoid slicing into the bulb cluster.
Lift a generous mass of soil around the bulbs to minimize accidental damage. After lifting the clump, gently shake off the majority of the excess dirt, removing only the loose, large clumps of soil.
Avoid washing the bulbs with water, as moisture before curing encourages rot and mold development. Lightly brush away any remaining soil, retaining the protective, papery outer covering known as the tunic.
Curing and Preparing Bulbs for Dormancy
Curing is a necessary step that hardens the outer layers of the bulb and removes excess moisture before long-term storage. The freshly dug bulbs should be laid out in a single layer on a flat surface, such as a screen or cardboard. This curing area should be cool, dark, and, most importantly, well-ventilated to encourage even drying.
This drying process typically takes several days to a few weeks, depending on the ambient humidity. During this time, the bulbs should be routinely turned to ensure air circulation reaches all sides and that they are drying uniformly. Once cured, the bulbs will feel firm and the outer tunic will be dry and papery to the touch.
Before storage, inspect each bulb for signs of damage, soft spots, or mold, and discard any that appear compromised to prevent disease spread. Viable offset bulbs, which are small bulbs attached to the parent, can be gently separated if they detach easily. If they are firmly attached, leave them connected to avoid tearing the basal plate.
Storing Bulbs Until Replanting
Successful long-term storage is aimed at maintaining the bulbs in a state of dormancy, usually until the autumn replanting season. The ideal storage temperature is cool and consistent, generally ranging between 50 and 65 degrees Fahrenheit. The storage location must also be dry and dark, such as a cool basement, garage, or shed, to prevent premature sprouting or fungal growth.
The choice of storage container is important and must promote air circulation; mesh bags, paper bags, or ventilated crates work well. Avoid using sealed plastic bags, as they trap moisture and create an environment conducive to rot.
For added protection and moisture regulation, the bulbs can be nestled in a storage medium like peat moss, vermiculite, or sawdust from untreated lumber, ensuring the bulbs are not touching one another. Throughout the summer months, it is beneficial to periodically check the stored bulbs for any signs of mold, pests, or deterioration. Promptly removing any affected bulbs will protect the rest of the healthy stock.