Bringing orchids outdoors for the warm season enhances growth and encourages prolific blooming. This shift mimics natural tropical conditions, providing increased light intensity and superior air movement. Moving your collection requires careful planning, as success depends on selecting the right time, location, and hardware. This guide details the steps and materials necessary to safely hang your orchids outside.
Timing and Environmental Assessment
The timing of the move outside depends on nighttime temperatures, which must remain consistently above the minimum tolerance of your specific orchid variety. Warm-growing orchids, such as Phalaenopsis and Vandas, require night temperatures above 18°C (65°F) to prevent cold shock. Intermediate varieties like Cattleyas and Oncidiums should not be placed outside until temperatures reliably exceed 12°C (55°F).
Assessing the ideal microclimate is important, as incorrect light exposure is the most common cause of damage. Most orchids prefer bright, filtered light, often described as dappled shade, which protects leaves from midday scorching. Direct sun, especially between 10 a.m. and 4 p.m., causes rapid leaf burn, leaving permanent lesions on the foliage.
You can perform a simple “shadow test” by holding your hand near the orchid’s location at midday. A soft, fuzzy shadow indicates diffused light, while a sharp, dark shadow signals the light is too intense, requiring a shade cloth or moving the plant under a tree canopy. Excellent air movement is also important, serving to dry the potting medium quickly and reduce the risk of fungal or bacterial diseases. Place the plants near a gentle breeze, sheltered from strong winds, to replicate their natural canopy environment.
Selecting Mounting and Hanging Hardware
The choice of vessel and hardware depends on whether you plan to pot the orchid or mount it as an epiphyte. For potted plants, use open-slatted teak or cedar baskets, or plastic pots with solid rims that accommodate wire pot hangers. Hardware, such as chains, S-hooks, or wire hangers, should be galvanized or plastic-coated to resist rust and ensure longevity outdoors.
Many orchids thrive when mounted bare-root onto a firm, durable surface, replicating growth on tree branches. Cork bark slabs are a good choice due to their rough texture, moisture retention, and resistance to rot. Tree fern slabs or sections of hard wood, like oak or pecan, are also suitable. Avoid soft or aromatic woods like pine or cedar, as they break down quickly or release harmful resins.
The Process of Securely Hanging Orchids
To secure an orchid to a mount, place the plant so its rhizome is snug against the surface, ensuring the newest growth points face upward and outward. Use flexible, non-abrasive materials like monofilament fishing line, soft rubber-coated wire, or nylon cord to firmly lash the rhizome and older pseudobulbs to the mount. The ties must be tight enough to prevent movement, which inhibits root attachment, but should not cut into the plant tissue.
If using a pot, ensure the wire hangers are securely hooked beneath the pot’s rim or through the drainage holes. Suspend both mounted plants and potted baskets from a stable overhead structure, such as a rafter, pergola, or hanging rod. Use heavy-duty S-hooks or quick-links to attach the hanger, ensuring the connection can withstand high winds and the weight of a fully watered plant.
Position the plants so they hang freely, allowing for maximum air circulation. This prevents leaves or pots from resting against walls or railings, which can create damp spots and harbor pests. The entire setup must be stable; a hanging plant that swings excessively can suffer root damage or dislodge.
Seasonal Maintenance and Protection
Outdoor life necessitates an immediate adjustment to watering, as increased light and air movement lead to rapid evaporation. Mounted orchids and those in highly porous bark mix will likely need water daily or every other day, compared to their weekly indoor schedule. Always water thoroughly in the morning, allowing the foliage to dry completely before evening, which minimizes the risk of rot and fungal infections.
The outdoor environment introduces new pests, with slugs and snails being the most destructive, often targeting tender new roots and growth tips. Inspect your plants regularly for irregular holes or silver slime trails, especially after rainfall. Control these mollusks by placing iron phosphate pellets, sold as slug bait, on the ground around the hanging area, but never directly in the orchid pot where it could harm the roots.
Monitor evening temperatures closely as the season progresses, signaling the time to bring the orchids back inside. Chilling injury can occur even if temperatures remain above freezing, causing water-soaked spots and discoloration on the leaves. Warm-growing orchids should be moved indoors before night temperatures consistently dip below 18°C (65°F).