Indoor orchids are popular decorative elements, but suspending them offers more than just an aesthetic advantage. Hanging these plants saves surface space while replicating their natural growth habit as epiphytes. Most orchids grow on trees, using the bark for support rather than drawing nutrients from soil. This aerial positioning allows for maximum air circulation around the roots, a biological necessity that hanging methods effectively mimic indoors.
Selecting the Right Hanging Method and Materials
Choosing the proper apparatus for hanging your orchid involves either baskets or mounting. Hanging baskets, often made from wood slats, wire, or macrame, allow for greater air exchange than traditional solid pots. When using a basket, select an open, coarse potting medium like large chunks of orchid bark or charcoal, which promotes rapid drainage and root aeration.
A more natural approach involves mounting the orchid directly onto a solid support, such as a slab of cork bark, driftwood, or tree fern. To prepare the plant for mounting, its roots are typically wrapped in a small pad of sphagnum moss to retain initial moisture. Non-biodegradable materials like fishing line or coated floral wire are then used to firmly secure the plant and the moss pad to the chosen mount. It is important to tie the plant snugly because the roots must remain immobile until they naturally anchor themselves to the new surface, a process that can take several months.
Optimizing Light and Airflow for Suspended Plants
The elevated position of a hanging orchid significantly influences its exposure to light, requiring careful placement to prevent leaf scorching. Orchids like Phalaenopsis thrive in bright, indirect light, and should be positioned where they receive morning sun, such as an east-facing window. Conversely, higher-light orchids like Cattleya may handle stronger exposure near a south or west window, provided they are shielded by a sheer curtain to diffuse intense midday rays.
Airflow is the most important environmental factor for suspended orchids, particularly for those that are mounted. Stagnant air encourages the growth of fungal and bacterial pathogens, leading to crown rot. Use a low-speed ceiling fan positioned to create gentle, continuous air movement that mimics a natural canopy breeze. The air current should be low-velocity and continuous, causing a piece of tissue paper to flutter gently.
Specific Watering and Feeding Regimens
The high exposure of suspended roots to air results in a significantly faster drying rate compared to orchids in standard pots. Mounted orchids, in particular, may require daily or near-daily watering, especially when indoor humidity is low. The most effective watering technique involves taking the entire mount or basket to a sink and running tepid water over the roots for several minutes, or fully soaking the apparatus. This ensures the entire root mass and any accompanying moss are thoroughly saturated.
Allowing the roots to dry completely between watering cycles is easily achieved due to the open nature of the hanging setup. When watering, use soft water, such as rainwater or water from a reverse osmosis system, because high concentrations of dissolved solids in hard tap water can accumulate and harm the roots. Fertilization should be frequent but highly diluted, following the “weakly, weekly” principle. A quarter-strength balanced fertilizer applied every seven to ten days, immediately after watering, provides consistent nutrition without risking chemical burn.