Curing is the process of slowly drying the outer layers of the garlic bulb and the attached neck for long-term preservation. This drying causes the protective outer wrappers to shrink and tighten, forming a barrier against moisture and pathogens. A properly cured bulb develops a mellowed, more intense flavor profile and can be stored for many months. Hanging the entire garlic plant is a reliable method for achieving a uniform cure.
Preparing Garlic for the Curing Process
The initial handling of the bulb immediately after harvest directly impacts the success of the cure. It is important to leave the entire plant intact, meaning the stalk and the roots must remain attached during the entire drying period. The stalk acts as a conduit, allowing moisture to wick away from the bulb gradually.
Washing the bulbs with water is strongly discouraged, as external moisture increases the risk of mold and rot during curing. Instead, gently use your hands or a soft brush to remove large clumps of excess soil. Do not aggressively remove the papery outer wrappers, as these layers are the bulb’s natural protection needed for storage. The long roots must also remain attached until the curing phase is complete.
Securing the Bulbs for Hanging
The method used to secure and hang the garlic must prioritize maximizing air circulation around each bulb. The most common technique involves bundling the plants together, typically in groups of four to twelve bulbs depending on size. Use sturdy material like twine or string to tie the stalks tightly a few inches above the bulbs. The bundle is then hung bulb-end down, allowing any remaining moisture to drain naturally away.
An alternative method is braiding the stalks together to create long chains, effective only for softneck garlic varieties. Their pliable stalks are suitable for braiding immediately after harvest, allowing the plants to cure while hanging. Hardneck garlic, with its rigid central stem, cannot be braided, making simple bundling the only option. Ensure the bunches are not packed too tightly, which would restrict airflow and encourage fungal growth. Secure the twine firmly, as the stalks will shrink considerably as they dry, potentially loosening the hold.
Selecting the Curing Location
The environment selected for curing controls the rate of drying and prevents spoilage. The location must provide excellent airflow, the most important factor to prevent mold and mildew from developing on the moist stalks and bulbs. In high humidity locations, using a fan to move air constantly across the hanging garlic is recommended to expedite surface drying.
Temperature should be moderate, ideally 60°F to 80°F, to allow for steady dehydration without drying the bulbs too quickly. The area must remain dark or heavily shaded, as direct sunlight can cause sunscald and lead to the outer cloves turning green, which affects flavor and quality. Suitable locations include a well-ventilated barn, an open-sided shed, or a garage with the bulbs hung away from windows.
Determining When Drying is Complete
The curing process typically takes between two and four weeks, depending on the environment, but the garlic itself signals when it is ready. The most reliable indicator is the neck of the stalk, which must be completely dry and constricted, feeling hard to the touch with no remaining green or softness. The outer wrappers surrounding the bulb should have fully dried out, becoming thin, papery, and brittle.
A final sign of readiness is the condition of the roots, which will have shriveled and become completely dry. Once these conditions are met, the garlic is prepared for long-term storage by trimming the dried roots close to the bulb. The stem is cut approximately one inch above the bulb, removing the majority of the dried stalk. The trimmed bulbs are ready to be stored in a cool, dry, and dark place.