The staghorn fern is an epiphyte, meaning it naturally grows on the surface of other plants, such as trees, rather than in soil. Mounting the fern onto a wooden plaque simulates this natural growth habit, creating a striking piece of living wall art. This method promotes the air circulation and drainage the plant needs to thrive in a home environment. Successfully mounting the fern requires specific materials and procedures to ensure its long-term health.
Gathering Supplies and Readying the Plant
The mounting process requires selecting a sturdy, non-toxic wooden plaque, such as cedar or cork bark, large enough to accommodate the fern’s growth. Supplies also include sphagnum moss (soaked until saturated), a non-corrosive fastener like fishing line or thin wire, and small nails or screws to act as anchors. Picture hanging hardware, such as a sturdy wire hanger or sawtooth hook, is needed for the final display.
Prepare the fern by gently removing it from its nursery pot and loosening the root ball. Remove excess potting soil to allow the fibrous root system to spread slightly. Trim away any damaged or dead fronds. Do not disturb the shield fronds—the flat, brown, or green plates covering the base—as they anchor the plant and protect the root area.
Attaching the Fern to the Mounting Board
The mounting process requires creating a stable, moisture-retentive base for the fern’s roots. Squeeze the soaked sphagnum moss to remove excess water, leaving it damp. Place a generous mound of this damp moss onto the center of the mounting board to cushion the root ball. This moss provides the necessary moisture and aeration as the roots establish themselves.
Position the fern’s prepared root ball directly onto the moss, ensuring the basal shield fronds face the wood. Orient the plant so its fertile, antler-like fronds point upward or outward, anticipating the final hanging position. The new growth points, or the crown of the plant, must remain exposed and should not be buried under moss or covered by the securing material.
Drive small nails or non-corrosive screws into the board around the perimeter of the moss mound, leaving the heads exposed as attachment points. Securely tie the nylon fishing line or wire to one anchor point. Crisscross the line tightly over the root ball and moss, looping around the exposed nail heads to hold the material firmly against the board.
The crisscrossing pattern must cover the entire moss area, ensuring the root ball is completely secure. The tension must be firm enough to prevent movement but not so tight that it cuts the shield fronds or compresses the root ball. Tie the line off at an anchor point and trim any excess material.
Placement and Secure Hanging
Selecting the correct environmental location is important for the fern’s survival. Staghorn ferns thrive in bright, indirect light, mimicking the dappled sun beneath a forest canopy. A north or east-facing window is often ideal, as direct, intense sunlight can scorch the fronds.
The plant requires high humidity and a consistent temperature range, ideally between 60 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit. Humid rooms, such as a well-lit bathroom or kitchen, provide a good microclimate.
The mounted plaque must be affixed using robust hardware capable of supporting the combined weight of the wood, the fern, and the water-saturated moss. Use a securely fastened picture wire or heavy-duty D-ring hangers anchored into a wall stud or appropriate drywall anchors.
Adequate air circulation behind the plaque is necessary for the fern’s health. This can be achieved by using small spacers or mounting the fern on a wire rack attached to the wall. This setup ensures the moss dries evenly after watering, preventing wood decay and root rot.
Long-Term Care for Mounted Ferns
Watering a mounted staghorn fern involves deep soaking. Remove the entire plaque from the wall and submerge it face-down in a basin of room-temperature water for 5 to 10 minutes. This allows the sphagnum moss and root ball to fully saturate.
Soaking frequency depends on the environment, typically ranging from weekly in warmer, drier months to every two to three weeks during cooler periods. After soaking, allow the plaque to drip dry completely before returning it to the wall. This prevents the moss from remaining constantly waterlogged.
Fertilize by dissolving a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer (e.g., 1:1:1 ratio) into the soaking water once a month during the spring and summer growing season.
The flat, plate-like shield fronds will naturally turn brown and dry with age, forming a protective layer over the root ball. Never remove these dried shield fronds, as they protect the roots and absorb water and nutrients.
If the tips of the green antler fronds brown and wilt, the plant is likely underwatered and needs more frequent soaking. Browning or blackening at the base of the antler fronds indicates overwatering, signaling a need to allow the moss to dry out more completely between soakings.