How to Grow Your Own Saffron From Planting to Harvest

Saffron is the world’s most expensive spice, derived from the crimson stigmas of the Crocus sativus flower. This perennial plant, often called the saffron crocus, blooms in the autumn and yields the prized threads known commercially as “red gold.” Understanding the specific needs of the saffron crocus is the first step toward a successful harvest of this unique spice.

Preparation and Location

The saffron crocus thrives in a site that receives full sun for at least six hours daily. The plant is adapted to a climate that provides hot, dry summers for a necessary dormancy period, followed by cold winters to induce flowering in the fall.

The soil must be well-drained to prevent the corms from rotting. A sandy or loamy soil mixture with a pH between 6 and 8 is considered ideal, and incorporating well-rotted compost can improve the structure without adding excessive nitrogen. Before planting, source viable Crocus sativus corms, which are distinct from the common ornamental spring-blooming crocuses. Look for corms that are firm, healthy, and at least 20-30 millimeters in diameter, as larger corms are more likely to produce flowers in the first year.

Planting and Initial Care

The best time to plant saffron corms is in the late summer or early fall, typically from mid-August to early September. This timing allows the corms to establish roots before the autumn flowering season begins. Plant the corms at a depth of 4 to 6 inches to protect them from temperature fluctuations and to encourage the formation of new cormlets.

Position the corms approximately 4 to 6 inches apart. Place each corm with its pointed growing tip facing upward in the prepared soil. Immediately after planting, give the area a light, thorough watering to help the corms settle and stimulate initial root growth. Ensure the soil is moist but never soggy.

Maintenance and Growth Cycle

After planting and initial watering, the corms require a period of relative dryness until the foliage emerges in the fall or early winter. The grass-like leaves, which can tolerate cold temperatures, will persist through the winter and into the late spring.

During this active growth phase, water sparingly, only during extended dry spells, as too much moisture can lead to fungal diseases and corm rot. The foliage stores energy for the next flowering cycle, so it should be left to yellow and die back naturally in late spring or early summer. Once the leaves have completely withered, the corms enter summer dormancy, and all watering should cease to keep the soil dry until the next autumn.

Harvesting and Curing

In mid-to-late fall, the purple flowers suddenly emerge from the soil. The harvest period is short, typically lasting only two to three weeks, and the flowers must be picked immediately after opening. The best time to harvest is early in the morning when the blossoms are freshly opened and the stigmas are at their peak potency.

Each flower contains three distinct, bright red stigmas, which are the spice itself. To collect them, gently open the flower and carefully pluck the three threads by hand or with a pair of clean tweezers, separating them from the yellow stamens. The collected threads must be cured to preserve their flavor, color, and shelf life.

The curing process involves drying the threads completely, reducing their weight to about one-fifth of the original. This can be achieved by spreading the stigmas in a single layer on a clean surface and placing them in a warm, well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight for several days until they become brittle. Alternatively, a food dehydrator set to a low temperature, around 55 to 60 degrees Celsius, can dry them more quickly. Once fully dried, the threads should be stored in an airtight container in a dark, cool place.