Growing your own Christmas tree is a deeply rewarding, long-term endeavor that connects you to the natural cycle of growth and cultivation. This project requires patience, as the typical time frame from planting a small seedling to harvesting a six or seven-foot tree ranges from seven to twelve years. The success of this commitment relies heavily on making informed decisions at the start, followed by consistent, specialized care over the full duration of the tree’s lifespan. By focusing on the correct species for your climate and maintaining its shape, you can ensure a dense, perfectly conical tree ready for the holiday season.
Selecting the Ideal Species and Location
The success of your Christmas tree depends on matching the species to your specific climate and soil conditions. Popular choices like the Fraser Fir thrive in cool, moist environments and prefer well-drained, acidic soil with a pH between 5.0 and 6.5. The Scotch Pine is highly adaptable, tolerating a wide range of soil types, including poor or sandy ground, and is known for its excellent needle retention after cutting. The Colorado Blue Spruce is another resilient option, favoring full sun and moist, well-drained soil while tolerating a broad pH range of 6.0 to 7.5.
The planting site must receive full sun exposure, meaning at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily to promote the dense, full growth desired. Proper soil drainage is equally important, as evergreen roots are susceptible to rot in waterlogged conditions. Ensure the chosen location provides ample space for the tree to grow to its mature height and width without interference, as crowded trees develop irregular shapes.
Planting and Initial Establishment
The optimal time for planting evergreen seedlings is early spring, just after the ground thaws, or in early fall. This timing allows the roots to establish themselves in cool, moist soil before facing the stress of summer heat or winter dormancy. If planting a bare-root seedling, soak the roots in water for one to six hours to rehydrate them.
Dig a planting hole two to three times wider than the root spread but only as deep as the root system, ensuring the root collar sits level with the surrounding soil surface. When backfilling, gently fill the hole with the original soil, tamping lightly to remove large air pockets. Immediately water the seedling thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots. Apply a thin layer of mulch to help retain moisture and suppress competing weeds. This phase requires consistent moisture for the first few weeks, but avoid overwatering.
Long-Term Care and Shaping Techniques
General Care
Weed control is important for young trees, as weeds compete for water and nutrients, which can stunt growth. Maintaining a weed-free zone extending at least two feet around the base of the tree is crucial, often achieved through mowing, mulching, or selective herbicide application. Watering is generally only required during extended dry spells, as established evergreens are drought-tolerant. However, young trees may require supplemental water for the first two years, especially during high heat.
Fertilization is not always necessary, but a soil test can determine if specific nutrients are lacking. If needed, a balanced fertilizer, such as a 15-5-10 blend, can be applied in the spring or early summer to encourage steady growth. For species that prefer acidic soil, like the Fraser Fir, fertilizers containing ammonium sulfate can help lower the soil pH while providing nitrogen. Pest and disease management involves routine inspection for common issues, allowing for early, targeted intervention.
Shaping and Pruning
The annual process of shaping includes both shearing and pruning. Shearing involves cutting the terminal ends of the lateral branches and the leader to control the tree’s height and promote denser foliage. This process typically begins when the tree reaches three to five feet in height. Shearing should be performed once the new growth, or “candles,” have fully elongated but before they harden, usually from late June to mid-July.
When shearing, the central leader (the topmost vertical shoot) is cut back to a length of 8 to 12 inches to regulate the tree’s height for the following year. For pines, this cut is often made at an angle to encourage a single, strong bud to form the new leader. Firs and spruces are cut just above a lateral bud. The lateral branches are then trimmed to create the classic conical shape, maintaining a taper where the base width is about two-thirds of the tree’s total height. Pruning involves removing entire branches that are dead, damaged, or growing irregularly, and establishing a clear trunk base, or “handle,” for the tree stand.
Harvesting Your Tree
Most trees reach the marketable height of six to eight feet between seven and twelve years after planting. Before cutting, inspect the tree to ensure it has the desired density and shape resulting from years of careful shearing. Use a sharp hand saw to make a straight, level cut across the trunk as close to the ground as possible.
Immediate handling is crucial to prevent the cut from sealing with sap, which would prevent the tree from absorbing water. After the harvest cut, move the tree to a cool, shady area and place it into a bucket of water within a few hours. If the tree will not be set up immediately, make a fresh, perpendicular cut to remove a half-inch disk from the base of the trunk just before placing it in a stand with water. Following the harvest, begin planning for a replacement seedling to maintain the continuous cycle of growing your own Christmas trees.