Sumac is a genus of woody shrubs and small trees (Rhus) celebrated for their striking ornamental qualities, especially their dramatic fall foliage and distinctive upright clusters of berries. These plants are often used in landscaping for their rugged adaptability and ability to thrive in poor soils where other species struggle. True sumac species provide a valuable food source for wildlife, and their red, hairy fruit clusters, known as drupes, can be steeped to create a tart, lemonade-like beverage. It is important to know that ornamental sumac varieties are distinct from the highly toxic Poison Sumac (Toxicodendron vernix), which only grows in wet, swampy areas and produces drooping clusters of smooth, white or light-green berries.
Selecting the Right Sumac Variety and Site Preparation
Choosing the appropriate sumac variety depends on the desired size and growth habit. Staghorn Sumac (Rhus typhina) is the largest species, growing up to 25 feet tall with velvety, branched stems, and is often selected for its impressive size and edible fruit. A popular cultivar is ‘Tiger Eyes’, which is a smaller, slower-growing shrub reaching about six to ten feet tall, featuring deeply cut, chartreuse-colored foliage that turns bright orange-red in autumn. For gardeners seeking a low-growing groundcover, Fragrant Sumac (Rhus aromatica) and its cultivar ‘Gro-low’ are excellent choices, typically staying under two to six feet tall and spreading widely without the aggressive suckering of the taller species.
Sumac is highly tolerant of various conditions, but selecting an optimal site ensures the most vibrant display and healthiest growth. The plant thrives best in full sun, which promotes the most intense fall color and the largest production of fruit clusters. While it will tolerate partial shade, too little sun can lead to sparse foliage and less dramatic seasonal transitions. Sumac is adaptable to nearly any soil type, including poor, rocky, or sandy ground, but the soil must be well-drained. It will not tolerate consistently wet or waterlogged conditions, which can lead to root rot.
Propagation Methods and Initial Planting
Gardeners can introduce sumac into the landscape using nursery transplants, stem cuttings, or seeds, with transplants offering the fastest establishment. When planting a nursery-grown specimen, dig a hole that is two to three times wider than the root ball but no deeper. Place the plant in the hole so the top of the root ball is level with or slightly above the surrounding soil grade to prevent water from settling around the crown. Backfill with the native soil and water thoroughly to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets.
Propagating sumac from seed is more complex, as the seeds possess a double dormancy requiring two specific pre-treatments before they will germinate.
Seed Scarification
This involves weakening the hard outer seed coat to allow water absorption. This is achieved by soaking the seeds in near-boiling water for 12 to 24 hours.
Cold Stratification
This mimics a winter period to break internal dormancy. Place the moist seeds in a refrigerator for 30 to 90 days. After both treatments are complete, the seeds can be sown indoors or directly into the prepared garden bed in early spring.
Stem cuttings are typically taken from new, soft growth (softwood) in late spring or early summer, or from semi-hardened growth later in the season. Cuttings should be dipped in a rooting hormone to encourage root development before being placed in a porous, well-draining rooting medium like a mix of peat and perlite. Maintaining high humidity and consistent moisture is necessary until a robust root system forms, which allows the young plant to be potted up or transplanted.
Long-Term Maintenance and Controlling Spread
Sumac is a low-maintenance plant that requires minimal watering and fertilization once its root system is established in the landscape. Mature plants are highly drought-tolerant and rarely need supplemental water except during prolonged periods of extreme heat or dryness. Fertilization is generally unnecessary, especially for plants growing in standard garden soil, but a balanced, slow-release fertilizer applied in early spring can be beneficial if the foliage appears pale or if the plant is established in very poor, nutrient-deficient soil.
The most important aspect of long-term care is managing the plant’s natural tendency to spread by sending up new shoots, called suckers, from its extensive underground rhizome system. These suckers can appear several feet away from the original plant, forming a dense colony over time. To control spread in a garden setting, a root barrier installed vertically around the planting area can physically contain the rhizomes. In the absence of a barrier, regularly mowing or cutting the suckers off right below the soil line is necessary to prevent them from establishing.
Pruning should be done in late winter or early spring while the plant is still dormant, before new leaf buds begin to swell. The primary goal of pruning is to remove dead or damaged branches, thin out older stems to encourage vigorous new growth, or manage the overall height and shape. Avoid removing more than one-third of the plant’s total wood in a single season to prevent undue stress.