The Sugar Baby watermelon is a popular variety for home gardens, earning the nickname “icebox” melon due to its compact size. This cultivar typically weighs between 6 and 10 pounds, making it perfectly sized to fit inside a refrigerator. The melons feature a distinctive dark green rind and sweet, bright red flesh, reaching maturity relatively quickly within 75 to 85 days after germination.
Preparing the Site and Planting
Watermelons require a location that receives a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day to fuel vine growth and fruit development. The soil structure is equally important; a well-drained, sandy loam soil is preferred because it warms up faster in the spring and prevents waterlogging around the roots. Amending the planting area with high-quality organic matter, such as aged manure or compost, ensures the necessary high fertility for these heavy feeders.
A soil pH range of 6.0 to 6.8 is optimal for nutrient uptake and overall plant health. Before planting, the soil temperature must reach at least 70°F, as cold soil severely inhibits seed germination and can stunt the growth of young seedlings. Planting should only occur after all danger of spring frost has passed in your region.
Direct sowing the seeds into the garden soil is the preferred method for watermelons, as their root systems are sensitive to disturbance from transplanting. Plant seeds about one inch deep in small, slightly raised mounds or “hills,” which help improve drainage and allow the soil to warm more rapidly. Space these hills approximately four to six feet apart to accommodate the sprawling nature of the vines.
If your growing season is short, you may start seeds indoors three to four weeks before the last expected frost, using biodegradable pots to minimize root shock. Thin the seedlings once they develop their first set of true leaves, leaving only the two or three strongest plants in each hill. This spacing ensures adequate air circulation and reduces competition for nutrients and moisture as the plants mature.
Ongoing Care and Vine Management
Consistent and deep watering is necessary throughout the growing period, especially from the time flowers first appear until the fruit reaches the size of a tennis ball. Water should be delivered directly to the base of the plant using drip irrigation or a soaker hose to keep the foliage dry. Keeping the foliage dry significantly reduces the risk of common fungal diseases like powdery mildew. Once the fruit begins its final stage of ripening, reduce the frequency of watering to concentrate the sugars within the melon, enhancing its sweetness.
The fertilization schedule must transition as the plant matures to support both vine growth and fruit development. Initially, a nitrogen-rich fertilizer is needed to promote vigorous vegetative growth and develop a robust canopy of leaves. Once the vines begin to flower and set fruit, switch to a fertilizer blend that is higher in phosphorus and potassium, such as a 5-10-10 or 5-10-15 ratio. Potassium is important for fruit quality, sugar production, and water regulation within the melon.
Apply fertilizer using a side-dressing technique, scattering the granules a few inches away from the plant stem and watering it in well. Common pests like the striped cucumber beetle can transmit bacterial wilt, so cover young plants with floating row covers immediately after planting for protection. Remove the covers when female and male flowers appear to allow for insect pollination, which is necessary for fruit production.
To prevent ground rot and protect the developing fruit, place a barrier such as cardboard, straw, or a tile underneath each melon. While some gardeners choose to prune lateral vines, managing the fruit load naturally by ensuring good nutrition is often sufficient. The sprawling vines will naturally intermingle, forming a dense ground cover that shades the soil and helps maintain consistent moisture.
Recognizing Ripeness and Harvesting
Determining the exact moment to harvest can be challenging, as the fruit does not continue to ripen once it is detached from the vine. The most reliable indication of ripeness is the tendril, the small, curly leaf located closest to where the melon stem attaches. This tendril should be completely dried out and brown, signaling that the flow of nutrients to the fruit has naturally slowed.
The “ground spot,” where the melon rests on the soil, provides another visual cue for ripeness. This spot changes color from a pale white or light green to a deep, creamy yellow when the fruit is fully mature and ready for picking. A final sign is a subtle change in the rind’s texture and appearance, transitioning from a glossy, shiny exterior to a more dull or waxy finish.
The classic “thump test” offers a final confirmation, though it requires practice to interpret correctly. An unripe watermelon produces a sharp, high-pitched sound when gently thumped, while a ripe Sugar Baby emits a lower, dull thud. When harvesting, use a sharp knife or shears to cut the melon from the vine, leaving a short, two-inch stem attached to prolong its storage life.