Growing strawberries in Tennessee is rewarding, as the state’s climate is highly conducive to cultivating this popular fruit. The warm growing seasons and adequate spring rainfall support robust plant growth. However, the region’s humidity and occasional high heat introduce specific challenges. Successfully establishing a strawberry patch requires a focused approach that accounts for these unique environmental conditions, starting with choosing the right plants and preparing the perfect location.
Selecting the Right Tennessee Varietals and Site
The foundation of a multi-year harvest is selecting June-bearing cultivars, which produce one large crop annually, typically in May and June. Varieties like ‘Allstar’ are popular due to their large fruit size and resistance to frost damage, which is helpful in Tennessee’s unpredictable spring weather. ‘Earliglow’ is another recommended June-bearing option known for its early ripening, sweet flavor, and resistance to water-borne diseases common in the humid Southeast, such as red stele and verticillium wilt.
Day-neutral varieties, which fruit continuously, are less successful in Tennessee because high summer temperatures often inhibit flower initiation. Regardless of the cultivar chosen, the planting site must receive a minimum of eight hours of direct sunlight daily for optimal fruit production. Good air circulation is also beneficial to manage the disease pressure associated with high humidity.
Soil preparation is a necessary preliminary step, especially considering the heavy clay soils found in many parts of Tennessee. Strawberries prefer a slightly acidic soil environment, with an ideal pH range of 5.8 to 6.2. Testing the soil before planting is necessary to determine the exact pH and nutrient profile.
If the test reveals a high percentage of clay, incorporating substantial organic matter, such as compost, is necessary to improve drainage. Strawberries have shallow root systems susceptible to root rot, requiring well-drained soil. Amending the soil profile the year prior to planting allows the organic matter to fully integrate and improve soil structure and nutrient availability.
Optimal Planting Timelines and Methods
Strawberry plants are typically set out during one of two optimal windows: late winter/early spring, or late summer/early fall. Planting bare-root dormant plants in February or March allows them to establish a strong root system before summer heat arrives. Spring-planted strawberries must have all flowers removed in the first year to redirect energy into developing a dense root crown, meaning the first harvest occurs the following spring.
In Middle and West Tennessee, fall planting during September and October works well, allowing plants to establish roots over the milder winter. This timing can provide a head start for spring growth and may lead to a more robust yield in the first fruiting year. Whether planting in spring or fall, set the plants at the correct depth, ensuring the crown—the central growing point—is positioned precisely at the soil surface. Planting too deep causes the crown to rot, while planting too shallow exposes the roots to drying out.
The Matted Row System is the most common method for growers, capitalizing on the June-bearing variety’s natural tendency to produce runners. Mother plants are initially spaced generously, typically 18 to 30 inches apart, in rows three to four feet apart. Runners that emerge throughout the first growing season are allowed to root and form new daughter plants, gradually filling the spaces between the original plants.
This process creates a dense, matted row approximately 18 to 24 inches wide by the end of the first year, with a clear walking path between rows. The generous initial spacing provides room for new plants to develop, which will produce the bulk of the subsequent year’s fruit. Any runners attempting to spread into the walking aisle should be removed to maintain the path and prevent overcrowding.
Seasonal Care and Patch Renovation
Once the strawberry patch is established, routine maintenance must address the hot and humid conditions of the southeastern United States. Irrigation is important during dry spells, as established plants require about one to one and a half inches of water per week. Consistent moisture is necessary for the development of healthy runners and for fruit bud formation, which occurs in the late summer and fall.
Weed control is necessary, and a thick layer of organic mulch, such as straw or pine needles, should be applied to suppress weeds and conserve soil moisture. High humidity increases the risk of fungal diseases, like leaf spot and anthracnose, so monitor plants regularly for signs of disease or pests, such as spider mites. Removing old or diseased foliage during the growing season helps improve air circulation and reduce disease pressure.
The long-term success of a matted row system depends on renovation, which must be performed immediately after the final harvest in late June or early July. The first step is to mow the foliage, cutting the leaves one to two inches above the plant crowns without damaging the crown itself. This removes old, diseased leaves and encourages the growth of a fresh, efficient canopy for the following season.
After mowing, the rows must be narrowed to prevent overcrowding and maintain a width of about 12 to 18 inches. This is typically done by tilling or hoeing the outer edges, removing older, less productive mother plants and making room for new runner plants. The final step is to apply a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 blend, to stimulate new growth and replenish nutrients used during fruiting.
Thorough watering after fertilization moves the nutrients into the root zone and encourages the growth needed for next year’s crop. Before hard winter freezes, apply a light layer of straw mulch over the patch for winter protection. This straw is pulled back in early spring once new growth begins, completing the annual cycle required to maintain a productive, multi-year strawberry patch in Tennessee.