A strawberry plant is a low-growing perennial herb. The structure we commonly call a berry is technically an enlarged receptacle, while the true fruits are the tiny seeds, or achenes, dotting its exterior. While growing a new plant directly from one of these seeds is biologically possible, it is not the method commercial growers typically employ. The standard practice for reliable fruit production relies on vegetative propagation, which ensures genetic consistency and a much faster harvest time.
Propagating Plants from Seeds
The process of starting strawberry plants from the achenes requires careful preparation and patience, beginning with isolating the minuscule seeds from the fruit itself. A simple method is to thinly slice the outer layer of a ripe berry, containing the seeds, and allow the pieces to thoroughly dry out over one to two days. Once dried, the seeds can be gently scraped off the fruit tissue using a small knife or razor blade.
These seeds possess an internal dormancy mechanism that must be overcome through a process called cold stratification before they will germinate. To simulate the natural winter conditions needed to break this dormancy, the seeds should be placed in a sealed container with a damp paper towel or peat moss and stored in a refrigerator for approximately four to six weeks. This period of cold, moist rest prepares the embryo for growth.
After stratification, the seeds are ready to be sown indoors, as they require light for successful germination. Press them lightly onto the surface of a sterile seed-starting mix in trays, but do not cover them with soil. Germination can be slow and sporadic, often taking two to four weeks, and is best maintained between 65 and 75°F (18–24°C). Seedlings require 12 to 16 hours of supplemental light daily until they are large enough for transplanting. Plants grown from these seeds may exhibit genetic variability, meaning they might not produce berries identical to the parent fruit.
Propagating Plants from Runners and Crowns
Strawberry plants naturally produce slender, horizontal stems called stolons, or runners, that extend outward from the main plant. Small plantlets develop at the nodes of these runners, offering an exact genetic clone of the mother plant.
To root these plantlets, gently pin the node down into a pot filled with soil or directly into the garden bed while the runner is still attached to the mother plant. Once the plantlet has developed a strong, independent root system, which usually takes four to six weeks, the connecting stem can be severed. This rooted plantlet is now a new, independent strawberry plant that will typically begin producing fruit the following year.
Another method involves planting bare-root crowns, which are dormant plants. The crown is the compressed, central stem structure where the leaves and flower stalks emerge. Proper planting depth is paramount for the survival of the crown.
The plant should be positioned so that the midpoint of the crown is precisely level with the soil line. Planting the crown too deeply can lead to rot, while planting it too shallowly exposes the roots to drying out. Immediately after planting, a deep watering is necessary to ensure the soil settles firmly around the root hairs, establishing good soil-to-root contact. These vegetative methods are highly favored because they can yield fruit much faster than seed-started plants and guarantee the desired fruit characteristics.
Essential Care for Established Plants
Once strawberry plants are established in their final location, they require a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight each day to maximize flower and fruit development. They perform best in slightly acidic soil (pH 5.5 to 6.5) that is rich in organic material.
The plants are shallow-rooted, requiring consistent soil moisture, especially during the flowering and fruiting stages. The soil should remain evenly moist but must never become waterlogged, which can quickly lead to root disease. Applying a thick layer of straw mulch around the plants helps suppress weed growth, keeps the developing berries off the soil, and stabilizes temperature and moisture levels.
Slugs and snails are attracted to the developing fruit and are best managed using physical barriers or traps. Fungal issues, such as powdery mildew, are prevented by ensuring good air circulation around the plants. Avoiding overhead watering and instead using drip irrigation or watering at the base of the plant helps keep the foliage dry, reducing conditions favorable for fungal growth.
Harvesting and End-of-Season Maintenance
The berries do not continue to ripen significantly once they are harvested. The berry should be fully colored and detach easily with a gentle pull when it is ripe. To maximize the fruit’s shelf life and minimize bruising, harvest the berry with the small green cap of leaves (calyx) and a short piece of stem still attached.
For varieties that produce one large crop in early summer, known as June-bearing types, renovation should occur immediately following the final harvest. This process involves mowing the foliage down to about an inch above the crowns to stimulate new growth and control disease buildup.
Proper winterizing is necessary to protect the crowns from freezing damage. After the first few hard frosts, typically when temperatures consistently fall below 20°F, a generous protective layer of four to six inches of clean straw mulch should be applied over the entire patch. This insulation shields the plant crowns from freezing damage.