Shallots (Allium cepa var. aggregatum) are members of the onion family that produce multiple bulbs from a single planted set. They are highly valued in cooking for their delicate, sweet, and mild flavor, which is less pungent than a typical onion. Shallots are an excellent choice for container gardening, especially for those with limited space like a balcony or patio. Growing them is straightforward, requiring careful preparation of the container environment and consistent maintenance.
Container, Soil, and Placement Selection
Successful container growing requires selecting a vessel that provides enough room for the shallots to multiply into a cluster of bulbs. A container should have a minimum depth of 6 to 8 inches, though 10 to 12 inches is preferred for maximizing yield. Width is equally important, as each shallot set requires adequate horizontal space to produce new bulbs. The container must have drainage holes, as shallots quickly rot in saturated soil.
Shallots thrive in a loose, well-draining medium, making standard garden soil unsuitable due to compaction. Use a high-quality potting mix blended with organic amendments like compost or aged manure to introduce fertility and improve structure. Adding perlite or coarse sand enhances drainage, ensuring oxygen reaches the roots and prevents waterlogging. Shallots prefer a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, typically between 6.0 and 7.0.
Placement directly influences bulb development, as shallots require substantial light. Position the containers where they receive full sun, meaning a minimum of six hours of direct sunlight daily. Consistent light encourages the plant to focus energy on forming bulbs rather than excessive foliage. Positioning the pots against a sheltered wall or in a protected corner helps shield the tall green shoots from strong winds.
Planting Shallot Sets
The most reliable method for growing shallots in containers is by planting “sets,” which are small, immature bulbs from the previous season. Sets are preferred over starting from seed because they mature faster and are easier to manage. Plant the sets with the root end pointing down and the pointed tip facing upward, barely covering them with soil.
The planting depth should be shallow, about one inch deep, ensuring the tip of the bulb sits just at or slightly above the soil surface. Planting too deeply can result in smaller bulbs or promote excessive growth of the green tops. Adequate spacing is a determining factor in the final bulb size, as each set multiplies into a clump of new shallots. Space the sets approximately four to six inches apart within the container.
After the bulbs are placed and lightly covered, a thorough initial watering is necessary to settle the soil. This watering helps initiate root growth and establishes the moist conditions needed for the shallot set to sprout. Water the container until excess moisture flows freely from the drainage holes.
Watering and Feeding Requirements
Maintaining consistent moisture without saturation is crucial for shallot care in containers. The soil should remain evenly moist but never soggy, as waterlogged conditions quickly lead to bulb rot and fungal diseases. Container soil dries out more rapidly than garden soil, requiring frequent moisture checks, especially during warm or windy weather. A simple test involves inserting a finger one inch deep into the soil; if it feels dry, the container needs water.
As the green shoots emerge and the plant enters its active growth phase, watering should be consistent, aiming to provide about one inch of water per week. This steady supply supports the plant’s metabolism and the development of new foliage. Once the bulbs begin to mature and the foliage starts to yellow near the end of the growing cycle, reduce watering frequency.
Shallots benefit from moderate feeding, but fertilizer timing is specific to bulb development. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, as they encourage excessive leafy growth at the expense of the bulb. Apply a balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 formulation, every three to four weeks during the main growing season to support plant health. Stop feeding entirely as the harvest date approaches, allowing the plant to begin curing and hardening the bulbs.
Gardeners must monitor for common allium pests. Thrips are tiny insects that suck sap from the leaves, causing silvery streaks and stunted growth. Onion maggots are also a concern, as their larvae tunnel into the bulbs, causing rot. Applying neem oil or insecticidal soap controls thrip populations, while proper drainage mitigates fungal issues like neck rot.
Harvesting and Curing
The shallot growing cycle concludes when the plants display visual cues indicating the bulbs have finished developing. Shallots are typically ready for harvest approximately 90 to 120 days after planting the sets. The most reliable signal is when the green tops begin to turn yellow, weaken, and naturally fall over, suggesting the plant has diverted its energy to bulb maturation.
Harvesting involves gently lifting the bulbs from the container using a small trowel or fork, taking care not to damage the outer skin. Careful lifting preserves the neck and minimizes entry points for disease, unlike pulling which can snap the neck and reduce storage potential. Once lifted, shake the bulbs lightly to remove excess soil, but leave the foliage and roots intact for curing.
Curing is a mandatory step that prepares the shallots for long-term storage by drying the outer layers and sealing the neck. Spread the harvested bulbs, complete with their tops, in a single layer in a warm, dry, shaded area with excellent air circulation. Avoid direct sunlight or high humidity, as this can ruin the curing process. Curing lasts between one and two weeks, continuing until the necks are completely dry and the outer skin feels papery. After curing, trim the dried leaves to a couple of inches. Store the bulbs braided or placed in mesh bags to allow air circulation and prevent moisture accumulation.