Shallots, a relative of the onion, are prized for their delicate, sweet, and mild flavor. While often grown from small bulbs called sets, starting them from seed offers access to a wider array of varieties and avoids potential soil-borne diseases transmitted by sets. This method requires a slightly longer growing period, beginning indoors to ensure the plants mature enough to form bulbs during the growing season. Following specific steps for indoor germination, outdoor acclimation, and seasonal maintenance allows home gardeners to successfully cultivate these clustered bulbs.
Starting Shallot Seeds Indoors
Growing shallots from seed must begin indoors, typically 8 to 12 weeks before the last expected frost date, allowing adequate time for development before transplanting. Shallot seeds germinate best when the soil temperature is maintained between 68 and 77 degrees Fahrenheit (20 to 25 degrees Celsius). Use sterile seed-starting mix in trays or small pots, as this medium is light and free of pathogens.
Sow the seeds shallowly, covering them with only about one-quarter to one-half inch of the mix. Keep the soil consistently moist but never waterlogged to encourage germination within 7 to 14 days. Once the seedlings emerge, they immediately require strong light to prevent them from becoming leggy. A dedicated grow light placed a few inches above the tops of the seedlings for 14 to 16 hours daily is necessary, as a sunny windowsill will not provide sufficient intensity.
If the seedlings become overcrowded, clip the tops with clean scissors, but do not pull them out, as disturbing the roots of neighboring plants can cause shock. Maintain this indoor environment until the young plants develop a sturdy base and reach a height of about 5 to 6 inches.
Hardening Off and Transplanting Seedlings
Before moving the shallot seedlings outdoors, they must undergo “hardening off” to acclimate them to environmental factors like direct sun, wind, and temperature shifts. This gradual transition should take place over 7 to 14 days, beginning about two weeks before the last expected frost date. Start by placing the seedlings in a shaded, protected location outdoors for only an hour or two on the first day, bringing them back inside each evening.
Over the following days, progressively increase their exposure time and move them into brighter conditions, including a few hours of direct morning sun. This conditioning prevents the leaves from scorching and strengthens the plant tissue. Once the hardening process is complete, transplant the seedlings into a prepared garden bed that receives full sun and has well-drained soil rich in organic matter.
Shallots thrive in a slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, ideally between 6.0 and 7.0. Plant the seedlings out when they are approximately the diameter of a pencil, spacing them 4 to 6 inches apart in rows 12 to 18 inches apart. Plant them just deep enough so the base and root system are covered, avoiding deep burial of the entire seedling. Water the transplants immediately after setting them into the ground to settle the soil and reduce transplant shock.
Seasonal Care and Harvesting
Once established, shallots require consistent care, particularly regarding moisture and weed control. Shallots have shallow root systems and need about one inch of water per week, especially during the bulbing phase in early summer. Avoid overwatering to prevent bulb rot. Keep the planting area meticulously weeded, as shallots cannot compete effectively with neighboring plants for nutrients and sunlight.
Apply a balanced, low-nitrogen fertilizer two to three times during the early and mid-growing season to support healthy growth. This prevents excessive green top growth at the expense of bulb formation. If a flower stalk (scape) begins to emerge, pinch or cut it off immediately to redirect the plant’s energy back into the bulb cluster. Stop watering and fertilizing entirely approximately one month before the expected harvest, which encourages the foliage to dry down and begin curing.
Shallots are ready for harvest in late summer or early fall when the green tops yellow, wilt, and begin to fall over naturally. Carefully loosen the soil around the bulbs with a garden fork before gently pulling them out to avoid bruising the skin. After harvesting, cure the shallots by spreading them in a single layer in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated location out of direct sunlight for one to four weeks. Curing fully dries the outer skins and neck tissue, preparing the bulbs for long-term storage in a cool, dry place, often in mesh bags or braids.