A sapling is a young tree, typically between one and four years old, representing a long-term investment in the landscape. Planting a sapling correctly provides the foundation for the tree’s future health, longevity, and structural integrity. The first steps taken determine how successfully the young tree establishes itself. Proper technique helps minimize the stress of transplanting and ensures the tree develops a strong root system capable of supporting a mature canopy.
Assessing and Preparing the Planting Site
The initial decision involves selecting the appropriate sapling stock, which generally comes in three forms: bare-root, containerized, or balled-and-burlapped (B&B). Bare-root trees are cost-effective and establish quickly, as they are planted during their dormant season in early spring. Containerized trees are convenient and available year-round, but their roots must be inspected for circling patterns that can restrict growth. B&B trees, often larger, may suffer significant root loss during harvest, requiring a longer re-establishment period.
Selecting the right location requires assessing the site’s conditions, including daily sun exposure and the soil’s drainage capacity. Most tree roots require oxygen, so planting sites must drain well to prevent waterlogging; a simple drainage test can confirm this property.
The planting hole should be prepared to be two to three times wider than the sapling’s root ball or root spread, but no deeper. Roughening the sides of the wide hole is beneficial, especially in clay soils, to prevent the smooth walls from impeding the outward growth of new roots.
Step-by-Step Sapling Installation
Before placing the tree, the root flare—the point where the trunk widens as it meets the roots—must be identified. This flare must sit at or slightly above the finished soil grade to ensure proper oxygen exchange for the roots. Carefully removing excess soil from the top of the root ball will expose this flare, confirming the correct planting depth.
For containerized stock, circling roots must be gently loosened, straightened, or cut vertically in several places to encourage outward growth into the native soil. If planting a B&B tree, all twine, wire baskets, and non-biodegradable burlap should be completely removed once the root ball is settled in the hole. Leaving these materials can restrict future root growth and potentially girdle the trunk.
The sapling should be positioned straight in the hole. Backfilling should use only the native soil that was removed, avoiding amendments which can hinder root expansion. Soil should be added gradually and gently tamped to remove large air pockets, ensuring good contact between the roots and the surrounding earth. Watering immediately after planting helps the soil settle and eliminate any remaining voids.
Essential Care for Initial Establishment
The first year is when the sapling is most vulnerable to transplant shock and requires diligent attention to moisture levels. Following the initial deep soak, a consistent watering schedule must be maintained, especially during the growing season. For the first one to two weeks, the tree benefits from daily watering, which can then be reduced to every two to three days for the next few months. A weekly deep soaking is usually sufficient until the tree is fully established, which can take up to two or three growing seasons.
Applying a layer of organic mulch helps conserve soil moisture, moderate soil temperature, and suppress weeds that compete for water and nutrients. The mulch layer should be approximately two to four inches deep and spread across the entire planting area, but it must be kept several inches away from the trunk itself. Piling mulch directly against the trunk, often called a “mulch volcano,” can trap moisture and encourage bark decay or create a habitat for rodents.
Temporary staking is generally unnecessary and should only be used if the sapling is unstable due to high winds or a disproportionately large canopy. If staking is required, the ties must be wide, flexible material and positioned low on the trunk to allow for some movement. This movement encourages the development of a stronger trunk taper. The stakes and ties must be removed within the first year to prevent the material from girdling the growing trunk.
Long-Term Health and Structural Management
Once the sapling has successfully established its root system, structural management becomes the focus of long-term care. This involves structural pruning to guide the tree toward a strong, balanced form that will prevent failure later in its life. The primary objective is to select and maintain a single, dominant central leader, which is the main upward-growing trunk.
Any competing leaders, or co-dominant stems of similar size, should be shortened or removed entirely to eliminate weak branch attachments prone to splitting. Pruning also focuses on removing branches that cross or rub against each other, as well as branches that form narrow, V-shaped crotches. Permanent side branches should be well-spaced along the trunk to ensure a sturdy framework.
Protection of the young trunk is a yearly necessity until the bark naturally thickens with age. Thin-barked trees are susceptible to sunscald, where winter sun warms the bark, followed by a rapid temperature drop that damages the underlying tissue. Sunscald damage, often appearing on the south or southwest side, can be prevented by wrapping the trunk with a light-colored tree wrap or guard during the winter months. Physical barriers such as wire fencing or plastic guards protect the trunk from deer rub, which can girdle and kill the young tree.