How to Grow Pumpkins on a Stick

Growing pumpkins vertically on a trellis offers a practical solution for gardeners with limited space, transforming the sprawling nature of a pumpkin patch into a manageable, upward-growing system. This technique, often called “growing on a stick,” maximizes vertical square footage, making it ideal for small yards, patios, and urban gardens. Elevating the vines and fruit improves air circulation, which helps defend against common fungal diseases like powdery mildew. Keeping the developing pumpkins off the ground also prevents them from resting in damp soil, significantly reducing the risk of ground rot and keeping the final harvest cleaner.

Selecting Varieties and Preparing the Site

The decision to grow vertically dictates that not all pumpkin varieties are suitable for this method, as the weight of the fruit is the primary constraint on the support system. Gardeners should select miniature or small-to-medium varieties that typically mature under five to seven pounds, like ‘Jack-Be-Little,’ ‘Baby Boo,’ ‘Small Sugar,’ or ‘Cotton Candy’. While some medium-sized pumpkins can be accommodated, any fruit over five pounds will require considerable, robust support to prevent the vine from snapping.

Pumpkin plants are heavy feeders and require rich, well-draining soil to support rapid growth and fruit development. Amending the planting site with several inches of aged compost or manure before planting provides the necessary organic matter and nutrients. The location must receive full sun, meaning a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily, as this energy is necessary for flowering and fruit production. Planting should only occur after the danger of the last frost has passed and the soil temperature has warmed consistently, typically when nighttime temperatures remain above 50°F (10°C).

Constructing the Vertical Support System

The support structure, or “stick,” must be sturdy to withstand the weight of mature vines, foliage, and multiple pumpkins, which can easily total fifty pounds per plant. Materials such as heavy-duty welded wire fencing, cattle panels, or hog panels are preferable to standard garden netting due to their superior strength and rigidity. These materials can be formed into an arch, a vertical wall, or a cylindrical tower, with a recommended minimum height of five to six feet to maximize growing space.

The trellis must be installed and anchored firmly into the ground before any planting begins to avoid damaging young pumpkin roots. For arch designs, a cattle panel can be bent over and secured between two raised beds or deeply set T-posts. Vertical wall trellises require robust corner posts, such as 4×4 lumber or thick metal posts, sunk at least two feet into the ground and stabilized with cross-bracing. This ensures the structure will not collapse under the increasing load of the plant as the season progresses.

Planting and Guiding the Vines

Seeds or transplants should be positioned immediately adjacent to the base of the completed support structure to facilitate the training process. Planting a cluster of seeds in a small mound, or “hill,” helps conserve water and provides a concentrated area of rich soil, with the strongest seedling being selected and others thinned out once established. If direct sowing, plant seeds about one inch deep, spacing individual plants at least 12 inches apart along the base of the trellis.

As the vine begins to lengthen and develop tendrils, active guidance is required to encourage upward growth. The young, flexible vines must be gently woven through the trellis mesh or loosely secured using soft materials like cloth strips or specialized plant ties. This initial training prevents the vine from sprawling across the ground and ensures the tendrils can securely grip the support system. Consistent weekly attention is necessary, as vigorous pumpkin vines can grow rapidly during peak season.

Managing Growth and Supporting Fruit

Vertical growing requires targeted pruning to ensure the plant’s energy is focused on the main vine and the selected developing fruit. Gardeners should regularly remove secondary or lateral vines that emerge from the main stem, cutting them with sterile shears just above a leaf node. This practice, known as vine thinning, concentrates resources toward the primary stem, preventing the foliage from becoming overly dense and maintaining good air circulation. Once a few healthy pumpkins have set, the growing tip of the vine can be “pinched” or cut back about 10 to 15 feet beyond the final desired fruit, signaling the plant to stop vegetative growth and mature the existing pumpkins.

The most specialized aspect of growing pumpkins vertically is providing physical support for the fruit, as the stem alone cannot bear the weight of a maturing gourd. Once the pumpkins reach the size of a tennis ball or softball, slings must be created and installed to transfer the fruit’s weight directly to the sturdy trellis. Effective slings can be fashioned from repurposed materials like old pantyhose, sections of stretchy t-shirts, or durable netting. The material should be tied securely to the support structure above the pumpkin, creating a flexible hammock that cradles the fruit from below and relieves tension on the vine’s stem.