How to Grow Potatoes With a Potato

The potato, a plant that grows new tubers from underground stems, offers a straightforward way for home gardeners to produce a harvest using a piece of the vegetable itself. This practice is a viable and popular method for utilizing kitchen-stock potatoes that have begun to sprout. The process relies on the potato’s “eyes,” the dormant buds from which the new plant’s stems and roots will emerge. By preparing these pieces correctly, a single potato from the pantry can become the start of multiple productive plants in the garden.

Preparing Your Potato for Planting

Selection of the parent potato is the first step, favoring firm, organic tubers free from significant blemishes or disease. The potato must contain several “eyes,” the small dimples where sprouts will form. To encourage growth, a process called “chitting” is used, where the potato is placed in a cool, bright location for a few weeks to allow short, sturdy sprouts to develop.

Once the sprouts are visible, the large potato can be cut into smaller pieces using a clean, sharp knife. Each resulting piece, or seed piece, should be roughly two inches square and contain at least one or two healthy, developed eyes. A piece of this size ensures there is enough stored starch to fuel the initial growth of the new plant.

After cutting, the pieces should be left exposed in a dry, well-ventilated area for two to five days to allow a protective layer, or callous, to form over the cut surface. This curing step minimizes the risk of the seed piece rotting once it is planted in the moist soil. This preparation ensures the emerging sprout has the best possible chance to establish a robust root system.

Proper Soil Preparation and Planting Depth

A sunny location that receives at least six hours of direct sunlight is necessary for potato plants to thrive and produce a good yield. The planting area requires loose, well-draining soil, ideally a sandy loam, to allow for easy tuber expansion and prevent waterlogging. Potatoes prefer a slightly acidic soil pH, typically between 5.5 and 6.0, as this range helps deter common potato diseases.

Once the soil is prepared, the cut and cured potato pieces are ready for planting. They should be set into the ground approximately four to six inches deep, with the eyes facing upward toward the soil surface. Proper spacing is necessary to allow each plant adequate resources and room for the new tubers to develop.

The seed pieces should be spaced about 12 inches apart within the row. After placing the pieces, cover them with just a few inches of loose soil. This initial shallow cover leaves room for the later, repeated process of mounding soil onto the emerging plant stems.

Essential Maintenance: Hilling and Watering

The most important cultivation practice for potatoes is called “hilling,” or earthing up, which involves gradually piling soil or compost around the base of the growing plants. The first hilling occurs when the shoots are about six to eight inches tall, covering the lower two-thirds of the plant with earth. This process must be repeated every few weeks as the plant grows and emerges again.

Hilling serves a dual purpose: it significantly increases the harvest and prevents the tubers from becoming toxic. New potatoes form along the underground stems, and burying the stems encourages more to develop, resulting in a higher yield. Hilling also blocks sunlight exposure, which would cause the tubers to turn green and produce a bitter, mildly toxic compound called solanine.

Consistent moisture is also necessary for developing smooth, uniform potatoes, with the plants requiring approximately one to two inches of water per week. The demand for water peaks particularly during the flowering stage, when the underground tubers are actively forming and expanding. It is important to maintain even soil moisture throughout the season, as fluctuations can cause the developing tubers to become cracked or misshapen.

Knowing When and How to Harvest

The timing of the harvest depends entirely on the desired potato size and intended use. For tender “new potatoes,” a small harvest can be carefully taken about two to three weeks after the plants begin to flower. These small, thin-skinned tubers should be consumed quickly because their delicate skin does not allow for long storage.

For a full harvest of mature, storage-ready potatoes, the gardener must wait for a clear visual cue: the plant’s foliage must yellow and begin to die back naturally. This signals that the plant has finished its growth cycle and directed all its energy into the tubers below ground. Watering should be stopped completely about 10 to 14 days before this final harvest to allow the potato skins to toughen.

To harvest, a garden fork should be inserted a safe distance away from the plant’s central stem to avoid accidentally piercing the potatoes. Gently lift and loosen the soil, carefully retrieving the tubers by hand. Once dug up, the mature potatoes must be cured for long-term storage by keeping them in a cool, dark, and slightly humid environment, ideally between 50 and 60 degrees Fahrenheit, for about one to two weeks.