Alabama’s climate, featuring long, hot summers and mild winters, requires specific timing and careful variety selection for successful potato growth. Unlike cooler regions, growth must be managed to avoid intense heat, which dramatically reduces tuber formation. Success depends on maximizing the plant’s growth during the short, mild spring and fall seasons. Selecting heat-tolerant, early-maturing varieties and amending the soil correctly ensures a productive harvest before the summer scorch or winter frost.
Selecting Varieties and Preparing the Soil
Alabama allows for two distinct planting periods, determining the potato variety a gardener should choose. The main crop is planted in late winter or early spring (February to early March), allowing tubers to develop before soil temperatures exceed 80°F. A smaller fall crop can be planted between mid-July and mid-August to mature before the first hard frost. Gardeners should focus on early-maturing varieties that can be harvested in under 100 days, such as ‘Red LaSoda,’ ‘Kennebec,’ ‘Red Pontiac,’ and ‘Yukon Gold.’
Potatoes thrive in loose, well-drained soil, which is challenging in Alabama’s often clay-heavy environment. Amend the soil heavily with organic matter, such as compost or aged manure, to improve aeration and drainage. Potatoes grow best in slightly acidic soil, ideally with a pH between 5.0 and 6.0, which helps suppress the common potato disease known as scab.
Planting Techniques and Initial Hilling
After soil preparation, obtain certified, disease-free seed potatoes, avoiding grocery store varieties that may carry disease or sprout inhibitors. Seed potatoes larger than a hen’s egg should be cut into golf ball-sized pieces, ensuring each piece contains at least one or two “eyes.” Allow these cut pieces to “callus” or dry for five to six days in a warm, humid location to form a protective layer, which helps prevent rot after planting.
Plant the seed pieces in a shallow trench three to four inches deep, spaced 10 to 15 inches apart with the eyes facing upward. Rows should be spaced two to three feet apart to allow for proper hilling. Cover the seed pieces with only three to four inches of soil, leaving the trench partially unfilled.
Hilling is essential for potato success, as it protects developing tubers from sunlight, which causes them to turn green and toxic. Begin the first hilling when sprouts emerge and reach six to eight inches in height. Mound loose soil from between the rows around the base of the plant until only the top few inches of foliage are exposed. This process encourages the plant to produce more tubers along the buried stem.
Ongoing Care and Pest Management
Potatoes require consistent, deep watering throughout their active growth period, especially as tubers begin to form. Provide one to two inches of water per week, increasing frequency during intense heat. Water at the base of the plant using drip irrigation or soaker hoses to keep the foliage dry, which defends against fungal diseases.
Fertilization is managed in two stages. First, work a balanced fertilizer (e.g., 8-8-8 or 10-10-10 blend) into the soil at planting time. Second, apply a side-dressing four to six weeks later when the plants are about six inches tall, scattering it a few inches from the stem. Avoid excessive nitrogen, which promotes lush foliage growth at the expense of tuber development.
Managing pests and diseases is a challenge in Alabama’s humid environment. Late blight, a fungal disease favored by high humidity, can be mitigated by ensuring good airflow and avoiding overhead watering. Common insect pests like the Colorado potato beetle and flea beetles quickly defoliate plants.
For small gardens, hand-picking adult beetles and crushing the bright orange egg clusters found on the underside of leaves is an effective organic control. For larger infestations, organic treatments like Bacillus thuringiensis var. tenebrionis (Bt) are effective against young larvae, and spinosad can be used for more established larvae populations.
Harvesting, Curing, and Storage
Potatoes can be harvested at different stages depending on the desired use. “New potatoes,” which are small, tender, and best for immediate consumption, can be gently dug from the sides of the hill seven to eight weeks after planting. For mature potatoes intended for long-term storage, wait until the plant’s foliage naturally begins to yellow and die back, usually three to four months after planting.
Once the foliage has completely died down, wait an additional two weeks before harvesting the mature tubers; this allows the skin to thicken and set. Dig the potatoes carefully with a pitchfork, starting well outside the plant’s center to avoid piercing the tubers. Gently brush off excess soil after digging, but avoid washing them, as moisture increases the risk of rot.
Curing is the final step for mature potatoes, ensuring long-term viability in a warmer climate. Cure the potatoes in a dark, humid environment, ideally between 50°F and 60°F, for about two weeks to heal minor cuts and further set the skin. After curing, store them in a dark, well-ventilated, cool space (40°F to 45°F). Storing them in a single layer in bins or baskets prevents bruises and maximizes air circulation, helping them keep for several months.