Growing your own popcorn at home culminates in a fresh, satisfying snack. This specific type of corn, Zea mays everta, is distinct because its kernels possess a hard endosperm and a moisture-filled center. When properly grown and dried, this internal moisture turns to steam under heat, building pressure that causes the kernel to explode. The method is straightforward for any home gardener.
Selecting the Right Seeds and Site Preparation
Selecting a suitable popcorn variety often depends on kernel size and hull preference. Varieties like Lady Finger or Japanese Hull-less are often called “hull-less” because they have smaller kernels that result in less noticeable hulls after popping. Traditional varieties like Mushroom or Butterfly offer a more robust pop and larger flake, ideal for coating.
Popcorn requires full sunlight and thrives in rich, well-drained soil, as it is a heavy feeder requiring abundant nutrients, especially nitrogen. Before planting, amend the soil with organic matter and work in a starter fertilizer. Planting should only occur after all danger of frost has passed and the soil temperature has warmed to at least 60°F.
Ongoing Care During the Growing Season
To facilitate proper wind pollination, sow the seeds directly into the garden in a block formation, rather than a single long row. Planting in a square or several short, parallel rows ensures the pollen-shedding tassels have a greater chance of reaching the silks. Space plants 6 to 10 inches apart to prevent overcrowding.
The plants require consistent watering, needing approximately 1.5 to 2 inches per week, especially when tasseling and silking. Drought stress during this period significantly reduces yield and kernel quality.
Because popcorn is a nitrogen-hungry crop, apply a side-dressing of high-nitrogen fertilizer when the plants reach about six inches in height. A second application is beneficial when the silks first appear.
Regular cultivation is necessary to control weeds, which compete for moisture and nutrients. Monitor for common pests, such as the corn earworm. Preventative measures like hand-picking or applying Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) to the silks can be effective.
Harvesting, Drying, and Curing
The post-maturity process of drying and curing is crucial for achieving a high-quality, poppable kernel. Popcorn should be left on the stalk until the ears are fully mature and the plant begins to naturally senesce, indicated by the husks turning completely brown and dry. Kernels are ready for harvest, usually 90 to 120 days after planting, when they feel hard and look shiny.
Once picked, the ears must be cured to reduce their internal moisture content to the ideal range of 13% to 14%. If the kernels are too wet, they will not pop; if they are too dry, they will pop poorly or shatter.
Continue drying by removing the outer husks and hanging the ears in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated area for several weeks to months. This curing allows the moisture to stabilize uniformly throughout the endosperm. Place the ears in mesh bags or string them up where air can circulate freely.
Shelling and Storage
The kernels are ready for shelling once a small sample test-pops successfully. To shell the cured kernels from the cob, you can use a dedicated hand-sheller tool. Alternatively, rub two cobs together vigorously, or use your thumb to flick the kernels off the cob, starting at the base and working toward the tip.
After shelling, store the kernels in an airtight container, such as a glass jar, in a cool, dark location. Proper storage maintains the precise 13% to 14% moisture content. If kernels fail to pop well after prolonged storage, they have likely dried out too much. This can be corrected by adding a small amount of water—about a tablespoon per quart of kernels—and shaking the container daily for a few days to rehydrate them before testing again.