Growing a persimmon tree from seed is a rewarding, low-cost project for the patient home gardener. This method allows for the propagation of both the American persimmon (Diospyros virginiana) and the Asian persimmon (Diospyros kaki), although the resulting trees may not retain the exact characteristics of the parent fruit. Because persimmon trees grown from seed take many years to mature and produce fruit, typically around seven to ten years or more, this process requires careful, long-term commitment. Success relies heavily on replicating the tree’s natural cycle, beginning with the correct handling of the seed itself.
Preparing Persimmon Seeds for Planting
The initial preparation of persimmon seeds is focused entirely on cleanliness to prevent fungal or mold growth during storage and stratification. Begin by selecting seeds from fully ripe, healthy fruit, as this ensures the greatest chance of viability. The dark brown seeds must be completely freed from the sticky, pulpy residue surrounding them, as this fruit flesh contains sugars that can harbor pathogens. To clean them thoroughly, rinse the seeds under running water, gently rubbing them against a colander or sieve to remove all clinging pulp and mucilage. Soaking the seeds in water for one or two days can help loosen this stubborn residue before the final cleaning. After cleaning, spread the seeds on a paper towel or screen for 24 hours to remove surface moisture, which helps prevent premature molding.
The Critical Process of Cold Stratification
Persimmon seeds, like many temperate tree species, possess a natural dormancy that must be broken by a period of cold and moisture, a process known as cold stratification. This mimics the conditions the seed would experience naturally over a winter season, signaling to the embryo that spring is approaching and it is safe to germinate. Without this simulated winter, the seeds will remain dormant and will not sprout.
To stratify the seeds, place them into a sealed container or plastic bag with a slightly damp medium, such as peat moss, long-fiber sphagnum moss, or fine sand. The medium must be moist, similar to a wrung-out sponge, but never saturated, as excessive water can promote rot or deprive the seeds of oxygen. A mixture of three parts medium to one part seed is a good ratio to ensure adequate contact.
The sealed container should then be stored in a refrigerator where the temperature consistently remains between 35 and 45 degrees Fahrenheit. Freezing the seeds is detrimental and should be avoided entirely. This cold period needs to last for a minimum of 60 to 90 days, though 120 days is often recommended. Check the seeds periodically for any signs of mold growth or drying out; if the medium appears dry, add a few drops of water to re-moisten it. Some seeds may even begin to sprout roots, known as the radicle, while still in the bag, which is a clear indication that the stratification process has been successful and they are ready for planting.
Sowing Seeds and Initial Seedling Care
Once stratification is complete, the seeds are ready for planting in containers, which should be done in late winter or early spring. Select deep pots, such as tall tree tubes or nursery pots, because persimmon seedlings rapidly develop a long, sensitive taproot. Using a well-draining, sterile potting mix, perhaps combined with perlite or sand, will prevent soil compaction and promote healthy root growth.
Plant the persimmon seeds approximately one inch deep in the soil, covering them lightly with the potting medium. The containers should be placed in a warm environment, ideally with temperatures around 70 to 80 degrees Fahrenheit, which encourages the transition to active growth. Maintaining consistent soil moisture is important, aiming for the condition of a well-wrung-out sponge.
Germination can be irregular and slow, sometimes taking a few weeks to several months for the first sprouts to appear above the soil line. Once the seedlings emerge, they require bright, indirect light for at least eight hours a day. Seedlings should not receive any fertilizer initially, as young persimmon roots are highly sensitive to salts, which can cause damage.
Transplanting and Long-Term Tree Maintenance
Before moving the young seedlings to their permanent outdoor location, they must undergo a gradual process of hardening-off to acclimate them to direct sun, wind, and fluctuating temperatures. This involves slowly increasing their exposure to outdoor conditions over a period of seven to ten days, starting with a few hours in a shady spot. This step reduces the shock of transplanting and increases the seedling’s chance of survival.
The permanent planting site should offer full sun exposure and have well-draining soil with a slightly acidic to neutral pH between 6.0 and 7.0. Due to the persimmon’s long taproot, the planting hole should be wide and deep enough to accommodate the entire root system. When transplanting, place the seedling at the same soil depth it was growing in the pot and water it thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots.
Long-term care involves consistent watering, especially during the first year and dry spells. Applying a layer of mulch, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk, helps retain soil moisture and stabilize the ground temperature. The resulting tree requires both a male and female plant for pollination in many varieties.