The peanut (Arachis hypogaea) is a legume that matures its seeds underground. Florida provides an excellent environment for cultivating peanuts due to its long, warm growing season and naturally sandy soils. This combination of heat, abundant sunshine, and well-draining substrate mimics the native conditions preferred by the plant. Successfully growing peanuts involves understanding the specific needs of this unique crop, particularly its soil and nutrient requirements.
Selecting Site and Optimal Florida Planting Time
A successful peanut patch requires a site that receives direct sunlight for at least eight hours daily. The soil must be well-drained, as the pods form directly within the soil structure. Florida’s native sandy soils are naturally suited, but they should be tilled deeply (eight to twelve inches) to ensure no compaction impedes the developing pods.
Peanuts are sensitive to frost and require warm soil temperatures for proper germination. Planting should occur after the final frost risk has passed and the soil temperature consistently reaches 65 to 70 degrees Fahrenheit at a four-inch depth. This timing typically falls between mid-March and May in South Florida, extending into May and early June for the northern regions. This ensures the necessary 120 to 140 frost-free days required by most varieties.
Soil preparation must include checking the pH, which ideally should be slightly acidic to neutral (5.9 to 6.5). If the pH is too low, agricultural lime can be applied several months before planting to adjust the acidity. Selecting a variety, such as the commercially popular Runner type or the large-podded Virginia type, will contribute to a better yield.
Planting Steps and Early Establishment
Begin planting by shelling the peanuts just before sowing, taking care to keep the papery red seed coat intact. If the area has not hosted legumes recently, consider inoculating the seeds with a specific strain of Bradyrhizobium bacteria. This enhances nitrogen fixation, helping the plant nodules convert atmospheric nitrogen into a usable form.
Sow the prepared kernels at a depth of one to two inches in the loose soil, planting them six to twelve inches apart within the row. Rows should be spaced about two to three feet apart to allow ample room for the plants to spread and for the subsequent “pegging” process. After planting, water the area gently but thoroughly to settle the soil around the seeds.
Germination typically occurs within seven to fifteen days, provided the soil remains consistently warm and moist. During the first few weeks, young peanut plants are vulnerable to competition from weeds, which must be carefully managed. Hand-weeding is recommended during this phase to avoid disturbing the shallow root system. This allows the seedlings to establish a strong start before their spreading foliage shades the ground.
Mid-Season Care and the Unique Pegging Process
Approximately six to eight weeks after planting, small, yellow, pea-like flowers appear above the foliage. These flowers are self-pollinating. Once fertilized, the flower petals drop, and a specialized stalk known as a “peg” emerges from the base of the former flower. The peg grows downward (positively geotropic), pushing into the soft soil where the peanut pod will develop.
Subterranean pod formation makes the peanut plant reliant on the nutrient profile of the soil immediately surrounding the developing pod. Florida’s sandy soils are often naturally deficient in calcium, a nutrient absorbed directly by the pod rather than translocated from the roots. A lack of calcium can lead to empty pods, or “pops,” and reduced seed quality.
To counteract this deficiency, a specialized application of calcium, typically gypsum (calcium sulfate), is advised. Gypsum should be banded directly over the row and the flowering area as the plant begins to bloom (around 30 to 45 days after planting). This ensures the nutrient is available to the pegs as they enter the soil. Consistent and deep watering is also necessary during the pegging and pod-filling stage, as moisture facilitates calcium uptake.
In Florida’s subtropical climate, monitoring for common pests, such as spider mites and armyworms, and managing fungal diseases amplified by high humidity is necessary. Preventative measures, including ensuring good air circulation between plants and avoiding overhead watering late in the day, help mitigate the risk of leaf spot and other moisture-related issues. The plants continue to flower and peg for several weeks.
Harvesting, Curing, and Storage
Harvesting typically occurs 90 to 140 days after planting, depending on the variety and planting date. A visual indicator of maturity is when the leaves begin to turn yellow and the foliage starts to wilt. To confirm readiness, carefully dig up a test plant and open a few pods to check for dark-colored, plump kernels inside.
Harvesting involves carefully digging or lifting the entire plant from the soil, taking care not to detach the pods. The next step is “curing,” which develops the classic peanut flavor and ensures safe storage. Freshly dug peanuts contain 25 to 50 percent moisture, which must be reduced to 8 to 10 percent to prevent mold and spoilage.
To cure them, the entire plants, with the pods still attached, should be hung in a warm, dry, and well-ventilated location, such as a garage or shed, out of direct sunlight. Allow the peanuts to dry for two to four weeks until the pods rattle when shaken and the kernels are firm. Once fully cured, the pods can be stripped from the vines, shelled, and stored in an airtight container in a cool, dark place.