How to Grow Ivy Indoors on a Wall

The classic look of an ivy-covered wall is achievable indoors with the right plant selection and training methods. English Ivy (Hedera helix) is the primary choice, as it is a resilient vine that adapts well to indoor environments. This plant provides an immediate decorative, vertical element, transforming a plain wall into a living feature. The indoor approach focuses on controlled growth to capture the aesthetic appeal of a green wall without the invasive nature ivy exhibits outdoors.

Initial Setup Choosing Ivy and Environment

To ensure a successful start, choose a variety of English Ivy with a smaller leaf size, such as ‘Needlepoint’ or ‘Pixie,’ which are better suited for the scale of an indoor wall. These cultivars present a more delicate and manageable appearance as they climb. The plant thrives best in bright, indirect light, such as a few feet away from a south or west-facing window. Direct sunlight can scorch the foliage, while insufficient light causes the vines to become leggy and sparse.

The ivy should be potted in a container with excellent drainage holes and a well-draining potting mix, as Hedera helix is susceptible to root rot if the soil remains soggy. Maintaining moderate to high humidity is also beneficial for the plant’s health. Increase ambient moisture by placing the pot on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot bottom does not sit directly in the water. This localized humidity prevents the leaves from developing dry, brown tips, a common sign of dry indoor air.

Securing Growth Installing Vertical Wall Supports

Unlike outdoor ivy, which uses aerial rootlets to cling directly to surfaces, indoor ivy requires a support structure to climb without damaging painted or wallpapered walls. The most practical solution involves using small, clear adhesive clips or removable utility hooks. These supports are placed strategically on the wall to guide the vines vertically.

Install the clips in a pattern matching your desired coverage, spacing them approximately 12 to 18 inches apart to provide frequent anchor points. Another effective method is to create a thin wire or string trellis directly on the wall surface, anchored by small, removable wall tacks or adhesive hooks. Once the support is in place, gently weave the existing vines into the clips or around the structure to establish the initial upward direction. As new growth emerges, continue to gently guide the tendrils toward the nearest support point, encouraging the plant to adhere to the established design.

Ongoing Care Watering, Pruning, and Training

A consistent watering routine is necessary for maintaining healthy climbing ivy, though the plant prefers to dry out slightly between waterings. Check the soil moisture by inserting a finger about an inch or two deep; if the soil feels dry, water thoroughly until it drains from the bottom of the pot. Overwatering is a common problem, often leading to yellowing leaves and potential root rot.

Regular pruning controls the shape and density of the wall coverage and prevents the ivy from becoming sparse or “leggy.” Use clean, sharp shears to snip back overly long stems, cutting just above a leaf node to encourage bushier growth. This trimming promotes vigorous new growth, which is more pliable for training. Training involves carefully directing and securing newly elongated vines to the existing wall supports, filling in gaps to maintain a lush, cohesive green wall. During the active growing season, apply a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer at half-strength about once a month.

Dealing with Indoor Ivy Pests and Disease

Indoor ivy is susceptible to houseplant pests, primarily the spider mite, which thrives in warm, dry indoor air. Spider mites feed on the leaves, causing tiny yellow or brown pinpricks and often leaving behind fine, cotton-like webbing on the undersides of the foliage. To combat an infestation, first wash the plant’s leaves thoroughly with a gentle stream of lukewarm water to dislodge the pests.

Following the wash, apply an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil, like neem oil, to all parts of the plant, repeating the treatment weekly for several weeks to break the mite’s life cycle. Mealybugs appear as small, white, cottony masses and can be treated by dabbing them directly with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Preventing these issues often involves addressing low humidity, as mites are less likely to establish a foothold on foliage grown near a humidity source.