Golden potatoes, such as Yukon Gold and Yellow Finn varieties, offer a creamy texture and a rich, buttery flavor, making them highly prized for mashing and roasting. Their signature yellow flesh comes from high levels of carotenoid compounds, which are antioxidants. Growing these tubers successfully requires attention to specific preparation and maintenance techniques throughout the season, from pre-planting to harvesting and curing.
Prepping for Planting
Purchase certified, disease-free seed potatoes rather than grocery store varieties, which may carry latent viruses. Cut large seed potatoes into pieces roughly the size of a chicken egg, ensuring each piece contains at least one or two “eyes.” Allow these cut pieces to dry for a day or two until the exposed surface forms a tough, protective callus.
A process called “chitting,” or sprouting, gives the seed potatoes a head start and can lead to an earlier, more robust harvest. Place the seed pieces, eyes facing upward, in a single layer in an egg carton or shallow tray in a bright, cool, and frost-free location, ideally around 50°F (10°C). Over the next four to six weeks, the eyes will develop short, dark, sturdy sprouts, signaling they are ready for planting. Long, white, spindly sprouts indicate a lack of sufficient light and should be avoided for the best start.
Selecting and amending the growing location is important for these heavy feeders. Golden potatoes thrive in a site that receives a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. The soil should be loose, well-drained, and rich in organic matter to allow for easy tuber expansion. A slightly acidic pH (5.8 to 6.5) helps discourage common diseases like potato scab. Incorporate well-aged compost or a balanced, pre-plant fertilizer into the soil, but avoid fresh manure as it can promote disease.
Planting and Initial Growth
Planting should occur in early spring, approximately two to four weeks before the average last frost date, once the soil temperature is consistently above 45°F (7°C). Begin by digging a trench about six inches deep, which will be partially refilled as the plant grows. Place the sprouted seed potatoes into the trench with the sprouts facing upward.
Set the seed pieces about 10 to 12 inches apart within the trench. Separate multiple rows by 30 to 36 inches to allow adequate space for the essential hilling process. Cover the seed pieces with only about three inches of soil, leaving a shallow depression. Immediately water the area thoroughly to settle the soil and activate the seed pieces.
Ongoing Maintenance and Care
The technique of “hilling” is the most important cultural practice for growing potatoes, determining both yield and safety. Tubers develop from underground stems, called stolons, that grow horizontally above the original seed piece. When plants reach six to eight inches high, draw soil up from the sides of the row to cover the stems and all but the top few leaves. This initial mounding stimulates the production of more stolons, leading to a higher yield.
Hilling serves a second purpose by blocking sunlight from reaching the developing tubers. Any potato exposed to light turns green, signaling the production of solanine, a mildly toxic compound. Repeat hilling every two to three weeks, or whenever the plant reaches another six to eight inches of new growth, until a substantial mound (at least 12 inches high) is created around the base.
Golden potatoes require deep and consistent moisture, especially during tuber formation after the plants flower. Irregular watering can lead to misshapen tubers, so aim for one to one-and-a-half inches of water per week. Soak the soil deeply to encourage a robust root system, and avoid overhead watering that can promote foliage diseases like blight.
Potatoes benefit from a fertilizer low in nitrogen but high in phosphorus and potassium (potash). Excessive nitrogen promotes lush foliage at the expense of tuber development. Potassium is important for increasing tuber size and improving storage quality. Side-dress the plants with a fertilizer, such as a 5-10-10 blend, when the plants are about six inches high and again two to three weeks later.
Monitor the plants weekly for common pests like the Colorado potato beetle. Remove pests by hand to prevent significant damage to the foliage.
Harvesting and Curing
The time to harvest depends on whether you desire “new” potatoes or mature tubers for long-term storage. New potatoes are small, thin-skinned, and best for immediate consumption, and they can be gently dug from the sides of the plant about two weeks after the plants begin to flower. For mature, full-sized golden potatoes meant for storage, you must wait until the plant’s foliage naturally begins to yellow and die back, typically 90 to 120 days after planting.
Once the tops have completely died back, stop watering and wait two weeks before digging. This rest period allows the potato skins to thicken and harden (“setting the skin”), which improves storage life. On a dry day, use a spading fork, inserting it well outside the tuber zone to avoid piercing or bruising. Gently lift the entire hill of soil and carefully pick out the tubers.
After harvesting, the potatoes must be cured for storage. Do not wash them, but gently brush off large clumps of soil. Spread the tubers in a single layer in a dark, well-ventilated area with high humidity and a warm temperature (45°F and 60°F) for one to two weeks. This curing process allows minor injuries to heal and the skin to fully toughen. Once cured, store the potatoes in a dark, cool location (40°F to 45°F) to prevent sprouting and greening.