Garlic is traditionally planted in the fall for a summer harvest, allowing the cloves to undergo a necessary cold period to trigger proper bulb development. Planting in the spring is a viable option for gardeners with limited space, especially when using containers, though it typically results in a yield of green garlic or smaller, single-clove bulbs. Container gardening provides the flexibility to manage soil conditions and temperature, which is beneficial when planting outside the typical autumn window.
Choosing the Right Containers and Medium
A container must provide sufficient depth for the garlic’s roots to develop, which means a minimum depth of 8 to 10 inches is required. While width can vary, a container with a diameter of at least 12 inches is generally recommended to accommodate multiple cloves and prevent overcrowding. Proper drainage is necessary, so the chosen pot must have adequate holes at the base to prevent waterlogging, which can quickly lead to root rot.
The growing medium should be a specialized, lightweight potting mix, rather than heavy garden soil. This mix must drain well while still retaining some moisture and nutrients for the developing plants. Garlic thrives best in a neutral to slightly acidic soil, ideally with a pH level between 6.0 and 7.0.
Spring Planting: Preparing and Spacing Cloves
Begin by gently separating the garlic head into individual cloves, leaving the papery wrapper intact to protect the new plant. Select only the largest, healthiest cloves for planting, as their size directly correlates with the potential size of the resulting bulb.
The individual cloves must be planted with the pointed end facing upward and the flat, basal plate end facing down. Plant the cloves approximately 1 to 2 inches deep beneath the soil surface. While in-ground planting requires 6 inches of space, container-grown garlic can be spaced closer, typically 3 to 4 inches apart, though this may result in a smaller final product.
Spring-planted garlic, especially if it did not receive a proper chilling period, may not develop into a multi-clove bulb and will often produce a single, rounded bulb. A pre-planting cold treatment, such as refrigerating the cloves for four to eight weeks, can simulate vernalization. Softneck varieties are generally more adaptable to spring planting than hardneck types.
Watering and Fertilizing Container Garlic
Container-grown garlic requires consistent moisture. The soil should be kept evenly moist but never saturated, as “soggy feet” can cause the cloves to rot quickly. Check the soil moisture by sticking a finger about an inch deep into the medium; if it feels dry, water thoroughly until excess drains from the bottom.
Garlic is a heavy feeder and will quickly deplete the limited nutrient supply in a pot, making regular fertilization necessary. Once the green shoots emerge from the soil, begin applying a nitrogen-rich liquid fertilizer every two to three weeks. Nitrogen is particularly important in the early stages to support robust leaf growth, which powers the eventual bulb formation.
Cease all fertilization once the plant begins to form a flower stalk or when the lower leaves start to turn yellow. The containers should be placed in a location that receives full sunlight, meaning a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sun exposure daily, to maximize photosynthesis and growth.
Harvesting Green Garlic and Small Bulbs
The spring planting method allows for an early harvest of “green garlic,” which is the entire young plant pulled before the bulb has started to divide into cloves. Green garlic has a mild flavor similar to a scallion and can be harvested at any point once the leaves are sturdy and pencil-thick.
If the goal is to harvest small bulbs, allow the plant to continue growing until the lower leaves begin to turn brown and dry. The general indication for a ready bulb is when about one-third of the foliage has yellowed, but the top two-thirds remain green. Spring-planted garlic will likely produce a single, small round bulb or a slightly smaller-than-average multi-clove bulb due to the shortened growing season.
To harvest, gently loosen the soil around the plant with a trowel or small fork before lifting the entire plant out to avoid damaging the bulb. Avoid pulling by the stem alone, as this can break the neck of the bulb. The yield from a spring container planting is best enjoyed fresh, as these smaller bulbs and rounds typically do not possess the necessary wrappers for long-term storage.