How to Grow Garlic in Missouri: A Step-by-Step Guide

Garlic is a rewarding crop, offering a significant harvest for minimal effort. Success relies on following specific regional guidance, as it is planted in the fall for a summer harvest. Missouri’s climate, with cold winters and humid summers, requires attention to the planting schedule and variety selection to ensure proper bulb development.

Choosing Varieties and Preparing Soil

Garlic is categorized into two main groups: hardneck and softneck. Hardneck varieties are generally better suited for Missouri’s cold winters because they require vernalization (cold exposure) to form large bulbs. These types have a stiff, central stem and produce fewer, larger cloves that are easier to peel, often featuring a more robust flavor. Recommended hardneck options include Music, German Extra Hardy, or Chesnok Red.

Softneck varieties lack the central stalk and flower scape. They are better adapted to milder climates but can be grown successfully in Missouri with winter protection. They yield numerous, smaller cloves and offer a longer storage life, making them common in grocery stores.

Before planting, prepare the soil to support the long growing season. Incorporate several inches of well-rotted manure or compost to improve drainage and organic content. Garlic requires a loose, friable loam; raised beds can aid drainage, especially in heavy clay soil. The ideal soil pH is between 6.0 and 7.0 for optimal nutrient availability.

Optimal Planting Timing and Technique

The most crucial factor is planting at the correct time in the fall. The ideal window is late October through mid-November, four to six weeks before the ground typically freezes solid. This timing allows cloves to establish a strong root system before winter dormancy, preventing excessive green shoot growth. Planting too early risks top growth damage; planting too late prevents adequate root development.

Begin planting by gently separating the bulbs into individual cloves. Reserve the largest outer cloves for planting, as these produce the largest resulting bulbs. Plant each clove with the flat, basal plate side facing down (where roots emerge) and the pointy side facing up.

The recommended planting depth is two to three inches below the soil surface. This depth protects the cloves from winter heaving caused by freeze-thaw cycles. Cloves should be spaced approximately six inches apart in all directions for proper bulb sizing and development.

Overwintering Care and Spring Maintenance

Immediately after planting, apply a thick layer of organic mulch for insulation and moisture regulation. A three to six-inch layer of straw or shredded leaves stabilizes soil temperature and prevents repeated freezing and thawing, which can push cloves out. During dormancy, plants require minimal intervention, but prevent waterlogging, which leads to rot.

In early spring, pull the heavy winter mulch back slightly to allow the soil to warm and encourage new growth. Garlic needs consistent moisture during its spring growth phase to size up the bulbs. Provide supplemental water during dry spells to ensure the plants receive about an inch per week.

Hardneck varieties produce a flowering stalk, known as a scape, in late spring or early summer. Removing this scape encourages the plant to redirect energy into maximizing the underground bulb size.

Recognizing Maturity and Proper Curing

Garlic is typically ready for harvest between late June and early July. Timing is determined by observing the foliage. Plants are mature when the bottom third to half of the leaves have dried, but four to five green leaves remain at the top. Harvesting too early results in small bulbs with thin wrappers; waiting too long causes wrappers to disintegrate, leading to separated cloves that store poorly.

To harvest, gently loosen the soil around the bulbs with a garden fork or small spade to avoid bruising. Lift the entire plant, including the stem and leaves, carefully from the ground.

After harvest, the bulbs require curing, which involves drying them in a warm, shady, and well-ventilated location. Curing for two to four weeks allows the protective outer wrappers to dry and tighten, reducing moisture and preparing the garlic for long-term storage.