How to Grow Garlic From True Seed

Garlic is a staple crop most commonly propagated by planting individual cloves, a form of vegetative reproduction that essentially clones the parent plant. This method is fast and predictable, yielding a mature bulb in a single growing season. However, there is an entirely different, more complex method of propagation: growing garlic from true botanical seed. This process is generally limited to plant breeders and dedicated enthusiasts because it is used to introduce genetic diversity, which is otherwise absent in clone-propagated garlic.

Distinguishing True Seed from Bulbils and Cloves

The term “garlic seed” often causes confusion because it is incorrectly used to describe two different planting materials that are not true seeds. The most common planting material is the clove, which is a segment of the mature bulb used for asexual reproduction. Planting a clove bypasses sexual reproduction entirely, producing a genetically identical copy of the mother plant.

The bulbil is a tiny, aerial clove that forms in the flower head, or scape, of hardneck garlic varieties. Bulbils are also a form of vegetative cloning, and they produce a plant that is genetically the same as the parent. True garlic seed, in contrast, is the product of sexual reproduction, resulting from the pollination of a garlic flower.

True seeds resemble small, black onion seeds and are the only way to create new genetic combinations, leading to variable offspring. This genetic variability is the primary reason the method is rarely used by home gardeners, as it introduces unpredictable traits like different clove sizes, flavors, and maturity times. The long history of selection for large bulbs and easy cloning has inadvertently made most modern garlic varieties functionally sterile, meaning they struggle to produce viable true seed without human intervention.

Sourcing and Preparing True Garlic Seed

Acquiring true garlic seed is the first major challenge. It must be sourced from specialized plant breeders or seed banks who work with the few fertile strains of Allium sativum that still set seed. These breeders often encourage seed production by manually removing the bulbils from the flower head, forcing the plant’s energy into developing the true flowers and seeds.

Once acquired, the seeds possess a natural dormancy that must be broken by cold moist stratification. The seeds should be mixed with a damp medium, such as peat moss, vermiculite, or a moist paper towel, and placed inside a sealed container.

This container is then stored in a refrigerator (33°F to 41°F) for four to twelve weeks. The consistent cold and moisture signal to the seed that the dormant period has passed, preparing it for germination once warmer conditions arrive. This stratification is necessary to achieve even a modest germination rate, which can be as low as 10 to 35 percent for first-generation seeds.

Sowing and Initial Seedling Management

After stratification, the tiny seeds should be sown indoors, typically eight to ten weeks before the last expected spring frost. Starting them early indoors provides the delicate seedlings with a controlled environment. Use a sterile, fine-textured seed starting mix in shallow trays that allow for good drainage.

The seeds should be sown very shallowly, covering them with only about 1/4 inch of the soil mix. To promote germination, the soil temperature needs to be maintained around 60°F to 65°F. Once the seedlings emerge, they require supplemental lighting for 12 to 14 hours daily, often achieved with grow lights positioned just above the fragile shoots.

Moisture control is important, as the soil must be kept consistently moist but never saturated to prevent a fungal disease known as damping off. The seedlings are ready for transplanting outdoors once the danger of hard frost has passed and they have developed three to four true leaves, a process that takes several months.

Multi-Year Cultivation and Bulb Development

Garlic grown from true seed demands a multi-year commitment before a segmented, culinary bulb is produced. The initial seedling transplanted in the first spring will not form a head of cloves in its first season. Instead, it directs all its energy into forming a small, undivided bulb underground, often called a “round” or a “ground clove.”

This round must be carefully harvested in the first summer or fall, much like a regular bulb, and then replanted in the autumn. This secondary planting is essential to initiate the process of clove division. The second growing season, which begins with the replanted round, is when the plant finally develops into a mature, segmented bulb.

The full, multi-clove head is typically harvested in the second or third summer after the initial seed was sown, depending on the specific variety and growing conditions. This extended timeline is the primary reason true seed propagation is not practical for commercial or home culinary production. However, it is the only path for breeders seeking to develop new, disease-resistant, and genetically diverse garlic varieties.