Garlic chives (Allium tuberosum) are a perennial herb blending the mild pungency of garlic with the subtle, grassy notes of onion chives. Their flat leaves and starry white flowers make them a popular culinary and ornamental addition to gardens. Starting them from seed is an economical way to establish a large, productive patch that returns year after year.
Preparing for Sowing: Timing and Medium Selection
The timing depends on whether you start seeds indoors or outdoors. For an earlier harvest, sow seeds indoors six to eight weeks before the last anticipated frost date. Direct sowing outdoors should occur in early to mid-spring once the soil temperature consistently reaches at least 50°F.
The growing medium must be sterile and well-draining to prevent disease. A specialized seed-starting mix, often containing peat, perlite, and vermiculite, provides the ideal light texture. Exposing the seeds to cooler temperatures, such as in a cold frame, can promote more uniform germination, a common trait among Allium species.
Use shallow containers, like nursery flats, ensuring they have adequate drainage holes. Before planting, thoroughly moisten the medium until it is uniformly damp but not saturated. This preparation prevents tiny seeds from being washed away and establishes a favorable environment for sprouting.
Sowing the Seeds: Depth and Initial Watering
Sow garlic chive seeds at a shallow depth of about one-quarter inch; deeper planting can hinder germination. Chives benefit from cluster planting, which mimics their natural clump-forming habit. Sow a small group of seeds, typically four to six, together in a single spot or cell.
Space these seed clusters roughly four to six inches apart. Planting in small groups eliminates the need for aggressive thinning and immediately begins forming the dense clumps characteristic of mature plants. After sowing, gently cover the seeds with the growing medium and lightly firm the surface to ensure good seed-to-soil contact.
Watering requires care to avoid dislodging the shallow seeds. Water from the bottom by placing the seed tray into a container of water for about 15 to 20 minutes. The medium will wick up moisture until the surface is damp, providing deep, even saturation without disturbing the seeds. This method minimizes surface compaction.
Post-Germination Care and Establishing Seedlings
Seeds usually germinate within one to two weeks, requiring consistent, bright light to prevent legginess. Indoor setups need 14 to 16 hours of light daily, using supplemental grow lights positioned a few inches above the foliage. A sunny south-facing window can also work if it receives direct light for most of the day.
Maintain a consistently moist environment, but avoid excessive saturation which can cause fungal issues like damping off. The medium should feel like a well-wrung sponge. Thinning is only necessary if clusters are excessively crowded; remove the weakest plants to leave three or four strong seedlings per clump.
Before moving indoor seedlings outside, they must be hardened off. This process involves gradually acclimating the young plants to outdoor conditions—direct sun, wind, and temperature fluctuations—over a period of seven to ten days. This slow exposure prevents transplant shock and ensures a higher survival rate when they are finally planted in the garden.
Transplant the established clumps into a well-drained bed or container, spaced at least 12 inches apart. Chives are slow to establish from seed, spending much of the first year developing a robust root system. Light harvesting can begin once leaves reach pencil size, but avoid heavy harvesting during the first year.
Ongoing Maintenance and Harvesting
Once established, garlic chives are resilient and require minimal attention. They prefer evenly moist soil but tolerate short periods of drought. Fertilization is generally unnecessary in rich garden soil, but a light application of a balanced liquid fertilizer in spring benefits plants in poor or container soil.
The white, star-shaped flowers appear in late summer and are edible, possessing a more intense garlic flavor than the leaves. If flowers are not harvested, they will set seed, leading to rampant self-seeding. Deadheading, or removing the spent flower stalks, prevents the plant from spreading aggressively.
As a hardy perennial, Allium tuberosum dies back to the ground with the first hard frost, entering a period of winter dormancy. They will reliably reemerge in early spring. Clumps should be divided every three to five years to maintain vigor and prevent overcrowding, which can reduce foliage production.
To harvest, use clean, sharp shears to cut the flat leaves near the base of the plant, leaving one or two inches of growth above the soil. This technique encourages rapid regrowth and maintains productivity. Pests are rarely a significant concern, but aphids can be managed with a strong spray of water.