Evergreen trees maintain their foliage throughout the year, providing consistent color and structure when deciduous varieties are bare. This group includes conifers, which typically bear needles or scales, and broadleaf species, such as holly or live oak. Remaining green year-round makes them popular for windbreaks, privacy screens, and adding architectural appeal to outdoor spaces. Their durable foliage is built to survive cold temperatures and dry conditions, allowing them to photosynthesize even in winter.
Selecting the Ideal Evergreen and Site
Successful growth begins by matching the tree’s needs to the site conditions. This involves analyzing the local hardiness zone to ensure the chosen species can withstand the average minimum winter temperatures in your region.
Soil characteristics, especially drainage, are a primary concern, as evergreens are susceptible to root rot in waterlogged conditions. They generally require well-draining soil and a pH level that is neutral to slightly acidic. You must also consider the species’ mature size, selecting a location that can accommodate its full height and spread to prevent future issues with structures or utility lines.
Select a high-quality specimen from the nursery, avoiding trees that show signs of stress like browning needles or wilting foliage. Inspect the root ball closely for circling roots, which can girdle the trunk and restrict nutrient flow.
For container-grown stock, locate the root flare—the point where the trunk tapers outward into the roots—and ensure it is near the surface. Balled-and-burlapped (B&B) trees should have a firm, intact root ball proportionate to the canopy size.
Proper Planting Techniques
The ideal time to plant evergreens is during the dormant season, in early spring or early fall. Fall planting is beneficial because cooler air temperatures and warmer soil encourage root growth without stimulating excessive top growth. Dig a hole two to three times wider than the root ball, but only as deep as the distance from the bottom of the root ball to the root flare.
Ensure the root flare sits slightly above the surrounding soil grade after planting. If planting a B&B specimen, place the tree in the hole, then remove all twine, synthetic burlap, and the top one-third of any wire basket before backfilling. Failure to remove these materials can lead to girdling of the trunk or roots as the tree expands.
Use only the native soil removed from the hole to backfill, avoiding soil amendments that can create a barrier. Gently tamp the soil to remove large air pockets, and water thoroughly to settle the soil around the root mass. The wide, shallow planting hole encourages lateral root growth, which is essential for stability and nutrient absorption.
Essential Care During the Establishment Phase
The first one to three years are the establishment phase, where the tree focuses on developing a strong root system. Watering must be deep and infrequent to encourage roots to grow downward rather than near the soil surface. Aim to moisten the soil to a depth of six to eight inches during each watering session.
Check the soil moisture level before watering by using a trowel or soil probe to feel for dampness at root depth. Overwatering is a common cause of failure in new evergreens, as it starves the roots of oxygen. A general guideline is to provide roughly one inch of water per week, adjusting for rainfall and high temperatures.
Applying an organic mulch layer helps regulate soil temperature, conserve moisture, and suppress weeds. Spread shredded bark or wood chips three to four inches deep, extending outward to the edge of the planting hole.
Keep the mulch three to six inches away from the trunk to prevent rot and pests, avoiding the “mulch volcano” practice. Staking is discouraged unless the tree is top-heavy or in a windy location, and stakes must be removed within one year.
Long-Term Maintenance and Pruning
Once established, evergreens require minimal routine care, focusing on selective pruning and occasional fertilization. Pruning goals include removing dead, diseased, or damaged branches, improving air circulation, or enhancing the tree’s natural shape and density. The best time for major pruning is in late winter or early spring before the new season’s growth begins, allowing cuts to heal quickly.
Pruning should be a selective process, making individual cuts back to a lateral branch or bud to maintain the tree’s natural form. Shearing, which uses hedge trimmers to cut outer growth to a uniform surface, is reserved for formal hedges. For conifers like pines, never cut back into old wood that does not have needles, as these species lack dormant buds and will not regrow from that point.
Fertilization is often unnecessary unless a soil test indicates a nutrient deficiency or the tree shows signs of stunted growth or poor needle color. If feeding is required, apply a slow-release fertilizer formulated for evergreens, typically low in nitrogen. Late fall or early spring applications are safest, as fertilizing during mid-summer can stimulate tender new growth easily damaged by cold weather.