How to Grow Daisies From Seeds: A Step-by-Step Guide

Daisies are cheerful, popular additions to any garden, known for their bright, simple flower structure and hardiness. Growing them from seed offers a cost-effective way to produce a large number of plants for beds and containers. This guide details the process, from tiny seed to established, blooming plant.

Preparing for Sowing and Timing

The process begins with selecting a suitable daisy variety, such as the classic Shasta daisy (Leucanthemum x superbum) or the low-growing English daisy (Bellis perennis). Gather your materials, including a sterile seed-starting mix and shallow containers or seed trays. Starting seeds indoors provides a controlled environment and should be done approximately six to eight weeks before the last expected frost date in your region.

If you plan to direct sow, wait until the danger of frost has completely passed and the soil temperature reaches at least 60°F. For outdoor beds, prepare the planting area by loosening the soil and incorporating organic matter to ensure good drainage. Daisies thrive in soil that is rich but not waterlogged, as excess moisture can hinder root development.

Sowing the Seeds

Daisy seeds require light for successful germination, meaning they should be sown on the surface of the growing medium rather than buried deep. Gently press the tiny seeds onto the pre-moistened seed-starting mix in your containers without covering them with soil. If sowing outdoors, scatter the seeds lightly and cover them with no more than one-eighth of an inch of fine soil or compost to prevent birds from eating them.

After sowing, use a misting bottle to water the trays, preventing the seeds from being dislodged. Consistent moisture is necessary during the germination period, which typically takes 10 to 20 days. The ideal temperature range is 65°F to 70°F, often achieved indoors on a heat mat or in a warm room.

Care for Emerging Seedlings

Once the seedlings emerge, remove any humidity domes and immediately provide them with adequate light to prevent “legginess.” Position your trays under a strong grow light for 14 to 16 hours daily or place them in a south-facing window that receives full, bright sun. Seedlings that lack sufficient light will grow long, thin stems as they stretch toward the nearest light source.

When the seedlings develop their first set of true leaves, it is time to thin them out. Using a small pair of scissors, snip the weaker seedlings at the soil line, leaving the strongest plant in each cell or spaced roughly two inches apart. This eliminates competition for light and nutrients, allowing the remaining seedlings to develop robust stems and root systems. Water carefully to keep the medium moist but not soggy; watering from the bottom can help prevent fungal diseases like damping off.

Before transplanting your indoor-started daisies into the garden, they must undergo a process called “hardening off” to acclimatize them to outdoor conditions. Over a period of seven to ten days, gradually expose the young plants to wind, direct sun, and cooler temperatures. Begin with just one hour in a sheltered, shaded outdoor spot on the first day, increasing the time and sunlight exposure incrementally each subsequent day.

Ongoing Care for Established Plants

After hardening off and when all danger of frost has passed, the young daisies are ready to be moved permanently into the garden bed. Plant the seedlings at the same depth they were growing in their containers, ensuring the root ball is level with the surrounding garden soil. Space the plants 12 to 18 inches apart, depending on the variety, to allow for good air circulation.

While establishing root systems, daisies require regular watering to keep the soil consistently moist. Once mature, most varieties become drought-tolerant, but they benefit from about one inch of water per week during dry periods. To encourage a prolonged blooming season, practice deadheading by removing spent flowers promptly. Snip the faded bloom and its stem back to the first set of healthy leaves or a new lateral bud, which redirects the plant’s energy into producing more flowers.

Monitor the foliage for common garden pests, such as aphids, which cluster on new growth, or slugs and snails, which chew holes in the leaves. A strong spray of water can dislodge aphids. Simple organic methods like hand-picking or using a copper barrier can help manage slugs and snails. These maintenance steps ensure your daisies remain healthy and continue to produce blooms throughout the season.