Growing a cherry tree from a pit is a satisfying, long-term gardening endeavor. This process requires considerable patience, as the timeline from seed to a mature, fruit-bearing tree spans many years. A cherry tree grown from seed will not produce fruit identical to its parent due to genetic variability and cross-pollination. The resulting tree will be a unique hybrid, often producing smaller or different-tasting cherries than the fruit it came from. This guide provides the steps necessary to successfully nurture a cherry seedling.
Preparing the Seeds for Planting
The first step involves cleaning the cherry pits, which are the protective shells for the actual seeds. Any remaining fruit pulp must be completely removed, as it contains sugars that encourage mold or fungus growth during stratification. Rinse the pits thoroughly under cool water, scrubbing gently to detach all residual flesh. Soaking the pits in water for a few days, changing the water daily, can help dissolve sticky pulp.
Once cleaned, air-dry the pits for several days in a warm area away from direct sunlight. Proper drying prevents moisture from encouraging premature germination or mold. While pits from most cherry varieties can be used, those from sweet cherries are often less reliable due to hybridization. Using pits from locally grown, ripe cherries yields a better chance of success.
The Step of Cold Stratification
Cherry seeds possess dormancy, which prevents them from sprouting prematurely. To overcome this, cold stratification is necessary, mimicking the natural chilling period the seed experiences outdoors. This treatment requires maintaining the seeds at cold temperatures, generally between 33 and 41 degrees Fahrenheit, for 10 to 12 weeks.
One reliable stratification method involves mixing the clean, dried pits with a sterile, slightly damp medium such as peat moss, sand, or vermiculite. Place this mixture inside a sealed plastic bag or container and store it in a refrigerator. The medium must remain consistently moist, similar to a wrung-out sponge, but never saturated, as excessive moisture causes the seeds to rot. Alternatively, place the seeds between layers of a moistened paper towel inside a plastic bag, often with a sprinkle of cinnamon to inhibit mold growth.
Throughout this period, check the seeds regularly for any signs of mold or drying. If the medium appears dry, mist a small amount of water into the container to restore moisture levels. After the chilling period is complete, the seeds are ready to transition into the warm, bright conditions needed for active growth.
Germination and Indoor Sprouting
Following stratification, plant the seeds indoors to encourage germination before outdoor conditions are suitable. Plant the pits about one inch deep in small pots filled with a well-draining seed-starting mix. A mix containing peat moss and perlite is effective, as it provides both moisture retention and aeration for the emerging roots.
Place the pots in a warm environment, ideally maintaining 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, and position them to receive bright, indirect light. If natural light is limited, a supplemental grow light for 12 to 16 hours per day ensures sufficient energy. Germination is variable, but the first sprouts typically emerge within two to eight weeks after planting.
Keep the soil consistently damp during this phase, preventing it from becoming waterlogged. Once the young trees reach six to twelve inches, they need a gradual adjustment to outdoor conditions. This process, known as hardening off, involves progressively exposing the seedlings to sun, wind, and temperature fluctuations over one to two weeks to prepare them for permanent transplanting.
Transplanting and Young Tree Maintenance
The hardened-off cherry seedlings are best transplanted to their permanent outdoor location during early spring or fall, once the soil is workable. A successful site should receive full sun (at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily). The soil must be well-drained, as cherry trees do not tolerate standing water, and ideally should have a slightly acidic to neutral pH between 6.0 and 7.0.
When planting, dig a hole twice as wide as the seedling’s root ball, but only deep enough so the root collar sits slightly above the surrounding soil level. If planting multiple trees, allow 15 to 30 feet between each seedling to accommodate mature growth. After planting and backfilling the soil, the young tree requires deep watering to settle the roots and eliminate air pockets.
Initial maintenance focuses on establishing a strong root system. Apply a layer of mulch around the base of the tree, keeping it a few inches away from the trunk to deter rot. For the first year, deep watering once or twice a week is needed. Fertilizer application is typically delayed to encourage root development. Be aware that a cherry tree grown from seed requires a long-term commitment, often taking seven to ten years before it produces fruit.