Cherries are a highly desired home-grown fruit, offering a rewarding harvest that far surpasses store-bought quality. Successful cherry production begins with understanding the specific biological needs of the tree and requires attention to detail throughout the year. Home growers typically choose between two main types: sweet cherries, ideal for fresh eating, and sour (or tart) cherries, commonly used for baking and preserves. This guide covers the steps necessary to cultivate a thriving cherry tree, from initial selection to harvest.
Selecting the Ideal Cherry Variety and Site
The first step is selecting a variety suited to your local environment. Sweet cherries, such as ‘Bing’ or ‘Rainier’, generally require a cross-pollinator, meaning two compatible varieties must be planted nearby. Most sour cherries, like ‘Montmorency’ or ‘North Star’, are self-fertile and will produce a crop with a single tree.
All cherry trees must meet the necessary chill hours, the cumulative number of hours below 45°F (7°C) during winter dormancy. Sweet cherries often require 700 to 900 chill hours, while some sour cherries need up to 1,200 hours. If the variety does not receive enough cold exposure, it will fail to set fruit, so confirming the chill requirement for your location is essential.
Cherry trees need a site that provides full sun—a minimum of six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily. The soil must be well-drained, as cherries are highly susceptible to root rot. A slightly acidic to neutral soil pH, ideally between 6.0 and 7.0, is preferred for optimal nutrient availability.
Proper Planting and Establishing Young Trees
Proper planting sets the foundation for the tree’s life. Bare-root trees, typically planted while dormant, should have their roots soaked in water for one to two hours before planting. Dig a hole two to three times wider than the root spread but only as deep as the longest root.
The graft union—the slight bulge where the fruiting variety meets the rootstock—must remain above the soil line. Backfill the hole with the original soil, avoiding over-amending the entire hole, which can discourage roots from spreading into the native soil.
After filling the hole, gently tamp the soil to remove air pockets and water thoroughly to settle the soil around the roots. Young trees require consistent moisture during their first few months. Staking may be necessary for the first year in windy locations, but the stake should be loose enough to allow the trunk to sway slightly and develop strength.
Year-Round Maintenance: Pruning and Nutrition
Pruning is a yearly practice for managing tree size, encouraging air circulation, and promoting fruiting wood. The primary goal is establishing an open canopy that allows sunlight to penetrate all parts of the tree. This is necessary for fruit quality and helps reduce the risk of fungal diseases. Pruning is generally divided into two types: dormant and summer.
Dormant pruning, performed in late winter before bud break, is reserved for major structural adjustments and removing dead, diseased, or crossing branches. Sweet cherries are susceptible to disease entry through fresh cuts, so many growers prefer structural pruning in late summer instead. Summer pruning, done after harvest, controls the tree’s overall height and size. This less vigorous process directs the tree’s energy toward developing fruit buds for the next season.
Cherry trees are light feeders, but a balanced fertilizer application in early spring is beneficial, especially for young trees. A soil test can determine specific nutrient needs. A general-purpose fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 blend, can be applied to the root zone before bud break. Mature trees need a balance of nutrients like nitrogen and potassium to support fruit development and maintain productivity.
Protecting Your Crop and Harvesting Cherries
Protecting the ripening fruit from common threats and knowing the right time to pick is the final stage. Birds are the most persistent pest for home growers and can strip a tree of fruit quickly. The most effective defense is physical exclusion, which means applying fine-mesh bird netting over the entire tree as the fruit begins to ripen.
The netting must be draped completely over the canopy and secured at the trunk to prevent birds from flying underneath. Brown rot, a fungal disease caused by Monilinia fructicola, is a common issue, especially during wet seasons. Prevention involves maintaining good air circulation through pruning, promptly removing affected fruit, and applying a fungicide at the pink-bud stage if the disease is recurring.
Cherries do not continue to ripen or sweeten after picking, so timing the harvest is important for peak flavor. Sweet cherries are ready when they reach full color, ranging from deep red to blackish-red, and a taste test confirms sweetness. Pull sweet cherries gently with the stem still attached, as this significantly prolongs shelf life. Sour cherries are typically picked when they come off the stem easily and have a slightly soft texture, though their taste remains tart.