Centipede grass, known scientifically as Eremochloa ophiuroides, is a warm-season turf variety favored across the Southern United States, especially within the transition zone. It earned the nickname “the lazy man’s grass” due to its minimal requirements for nitrogen fertilization and mowing compared to other common turf species. This perennial grass is distinguished by its light, apple-green color and a slow, creeping growth habit that spreads via thick, above-ground runners called stolons. Its low maintenance profile makes it a popular choice for homeowners seeking a dense turf without intensive upkeep.
Preparing the Site for Centipede Grass
Centipede grass has specific environmental preferences that must be addressed before planting. The species excels in full sunlight but can handle partial shade, provided it still receives at least six hours of direct sun daily; it will not thrive in deep shade. Proper drainage is also necessary, as the grass does not tolerate constantly waterlogged or compacted soil.
The most critical factor is the soil’s acidity; centipede grass prefers a highly acidic pH range of 5.0 to 6.0. A professional soil test is necessary to determine the existing pH and nutrient levels.
If the soil pH is too high (alkaline), it must be lowered for the centipede grass to absorb nutrients effectively. Elemental sulfur is the product used for this adjustment, as soil bacteria slowly convert it to sulfuric acid. When applying sulfur, do not exceed five pounds per 1,000 square feet in a single application, and never apply it when air temperatures are above 80°F.
Establishing the Lawn: Planting Methods
Once the soil is prepared, centipede grass can be established using seed, sod, or vegetative plugs. The ideal time for planting is late spring to early summer, when soil temperatures are reliably warm and the risk of frost has passed.
Seeding is the most economical option, but it requires patience, as it can take up to two years to achieve full, dense coverage. Seeds should be spread at the recommended rate and lightly raked into the top quarter-inch of soil to ensure good seed-to-soil contact. For faster results, sod or plugs are the preferred method, with sod providing an immediate, fully covered lawn.
When laying sod, strips should be placed with tight seams, and the entire area should be rolled to eliminate air pockets and ensure firm contact with the prepared soil. Plugs are small sections of established turf planted in a grid pattern, typically 6 to 12 inches apart, requiring three to four months to spread and cover the area completely.
Regardless of the planting method, an intensive watering schedule is required immediately after installation. The soil must be kept consistently moist to a depth of three to four inches for the first 10 to 14 days to encourage rooting. This high-frequency watering is necessary until the grass shows signs of successful establishment and active growth.
Long-Term Maintenance and Care
Once the centipede grass is fully established (typically after 6 to 12 months), maintenance shifts to a low-input routine that reflects its “lazy man’s grass” reputation. The grass should be mowed to a low height, ideally between 1 and 1.5 inches, to prevent thatch buildup and maintain density. Mowing frequency should be adjusted so no more than one-third of the leaf blade is removed at any single time.
Fertilization requirements are minimal; centipede grass is highly sensitive to over-fertilization, which can lead to “centipede decline.” Established lawns typically require only one to two pounds of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet per year, with the first application in late spring after the grass has fully greened up. Low-nitrogen, high-potassium fertilizers are preferred, and nitrogen application should be avoided completely in the fall.
The watering routine must transition from the intensive daily schedule used for establishment to a deep, infrequent method. Established centipede grass requires about one inch of water per week, applied in one or two deep soakings rather than short, shallow bursts. This practice encourages deep root growth, which improves the grass’s resilience and drought tolerance during summer months.