Growing cedar trees from vegetative cuttings offers a reliable method to create genetically identical copies of a desirable parent plant, often resulting in quicker establishment compared to starting from seed. While the term “cedar” can refer to true Cedrus species, this propagation technique is highly effective for common landscape evergreens like Thuja (arborvitae) and Juniperus (juniper). Vegetative propagation leverages the plant’s natural ability to regenerate tissue, producing a fully rooted clone that maintains the exact characteristics of the source material.
Selecting and Harvesting Cuttings
The highest success rates for cedar propagation come from taking semi-hardwood cuttings during the plant’s dormant season, typically in late fall or early winter after the current season’s growth has matured. This timing ensures the plant’s energy is available for root development rather than foliage growth. Cuttings should be collected from a healthy, vigorous parent plant, selecting firm, current-season growth that is slightly woody at the base but still flexible near the tip.
A cutting length of approximately six to eight inches is ideal for conifers like cedar. The most effective method involves taking the cutting with a “heel,” which is a small piece of older, two-year-old wood still attached to the base. This heel provides a larger surface area and a reserve of carbohydrates, enhancing callus tissue formation and subsequent root initiation. Immediately after harvesting, wrap the cuttings in a damp paper towel or plastic bag to prevent desiccation, as they are highly vulnerable to moisture loss.
Rooting Preparation and Initial Planting
Before planting, prepare the base of the cutting to maximize the absorption of growth hormones and prevent rot. Strip needles or foliage from the lower one to two inches, exposing the stem tissue and any potential nodes where roots may emerge. Some propagators also lightly wound the bark on the lower portion of the stem by scraping a thin strip of outer tissue, which encourages callus formation.
The application of a rooting hormone containing indole-3-butyric acid (IBA) is beneficial for semi-hardwood cedar cuttings, which are moderately difficult to root. A concentration between 3,000 to 8,000 parts per million (ppm) of IBA provides the necessary chemical signal to stimulate root growth. After dipping the base into the hormone, immediately insert the treated end into a sterile, well-draining rooting medium.
An ideal rooting medium retains moisture yet offers excellent aeration to prevent fungal issues and root rot. A mixture of one part peat moss to one part perlite, or a blend containing coarse sand, is commonly used to provide this balance. Insert the cutting deep enough so the stripped portion of the stem is below the surface, and firm the medium gently around the base to eliminate air pockets. Use a pencil or dowel to create a hole before inserting the cutting; this prevents the rooting hormone from being rubbed off.
Maintaining the Rooting Environment and Transplanting
Successful rooting requires a stable environment with high humidity and consistent temperature, since the cutting cannot draw water efficiently. High humidity is achieved by covering the container with a clear plastic dome or bag to create a mini-greenhouse effect. This minimizes transpiration, which is the water loss through the foliage.
Place the container in a location that receives bright, indirect light, avoiding harsh, direct sunlight that can overheat the enclosed environment. Providing bottom heat, using a heating mat set to maintain 65 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit, is effective for promoting faster root development. The rooting medium must be kept consistently moist but never saturated, as excess water displaces the oxygen needed for root growth.
Cedar cuttings are slow to root, often taking three to six months before a viable root system develops. Rooting is confirmed by gently tugging on the cutting; resistance indicates that roots have formed and anchored the plant. Once rooted, the young plants must be “hardened off” by gradually removing the humidity cover over several weeks, acclimating them to lower humidity levels. The rooted cuttings are then ready to be transplanted into a larger pot or their permanent location, typically in the following spring or summer after the danger of frost has passed.