Growing cabbage in Florida presents unique challenges due to the state’s mild winters, intense seasonal heat, and nutrient-poor sandy soils. This cool-season vegetable thrives in temperatures between 59°F and 68°F, making the traditional growing season a narrow window between late fall and early spring. Success requires careful planning regarding when to plant and how to manage the soil’s composition. By selecting appropriate varieties and implementing specific cultural practices, Florida gardeners can achieve a bountiful harvest despite the regional climate constraints.
Selecting the Right Planting Time and Variety
The timing of planting is the most important factor for cabbage success in Florida, as the plant must mature before the summer heat causes it to bolt (flower prematurely). Florida’s growing season is divided regionally to account for varying frost risks and heat exposure. North Florida plants between August and February. Central and South Florida plant between September and January.
Starting with transplants rather than seeds is recommended, as this shortens the time to maturity by several weeks and better utilizes the cool season. Heading cabbage varieties take approximately 70 to 90 days from transplanting to harvest.
Choosing varieties known for heat tolerance or fast maturity helps mitigate the risk of bolting. Selecting a short-season hybrid allows the crop to form a firm head before the heat spikes of late spring. Popular choices that perform well in Florida include:
- ‘Bravo’
- ‘Bronco’
- ‘Early Jersey Wakefield’
- ‘Golden Acre’
- ‘Savoy Perfection’
Preparing the Site and Transplanting
Cabbage is a heavy feeder that requires consistently moist, fertile soil to produce large, tight heads. Florida’s native soils, often characterized as sandy and lacking in organic matter, must be heavily amended. Before planting, incorporate two to three inches of organic material, such as compost, aged manure, or peat moss, into the garden bed. This amendment improves the soil’s ability to retain water and nutrients, which is crucial in sandy conditions where nutrients leach quickly.
Cabbage grows best in a slightly acidic to neutral soil, with a pH range of 6.0 to 6.5. In parts of South Florida, soils can be shallow and have a high pH due to underlying limestone, making pH adjustment a necessary step. Soil testing can confirm the pH level, and if necessary, sulfur can be applied to lower the alkalinity.
When setting out transplants, space them generously to allow for head development and air circulation. Plants should be placed 12 to 24 inches apart within the row, with rows spaced 24 to 36 inches apart. Proper spacing helps prevent the spread of fungal diseases common in Florida’s humid environment. Transplants should be set into the prepared soil at the same depth they were growing in their containers and watered in immediately.
Ongoing Care: Water, Nutrients, and Pest Defense
Cabbage requires consistent soil moisture, needing about one inch of water per week, especially during dry periods. Fluctuations in moisture can cause the developing heads to split or crack, ruining the harvest. Drip irrigation or soaker hoses are advantageous, as they deliver water directly to the root zone while keeping the leaves dry, which helps suppress fungal diseases that thrive in high humidity. Watering early in the morning allows moisture on the leaves to evaporate quickly.
Cabbage benefits from frequent fertilization throughout its growing cycle. A balanced, slow-release fertilizer can be applied at transplanting. Subsequent feeding should focus on nitrogen, which fuels rapid leaf and head growth. Nitrogen requirements are significant, and additional applications, known as side dressing, should begin about three weeks after planting. Avoiding high nitrogen levels once the heads begin to form is advisable, as this can lead to splitting.
Florida’s mild climate supports year-round pest pressure, making defense a continuous task. The most common threats are the imported cabbage worm, the cabbage looper, and aphids. Non-toxic control methods are highly effective for home gardens.
Floating row covers, secured tightly over the plants at transplanting, physically prevent the cabbage white butterfly from laying eggs. Once pests are present, the biological insecticide Bacillus thuringiensis (Bt) is an effective treatment against caterpillar pests like the cabbage worm and looper. Neem oil is also useful, acting as a repellent and disrupting the growth and feeding of various insects. Gardeners should regularly inspect the undersides of leaves, where pests and their eggs often hide, and handpick any visible larvae to maintain a healthy crop.
Knowing When and How to Harvest
Cabbage is ready for harvest once the head reaches the desired size and becomes firm to the touch. A mature head will feel dense and solid when gently pressed. Time to maturity varies by variety but generally occurs between 70 and 90 days after transplanting. Harvesting should happen promptly once firmness is achieved, as overly mature heads are prone to splitting, especially after heavy rain or inconsistent watering.
To harvest, use a sharp knife to cut the stalk just below the lowest tight leaf of the head. Leaving the stalk and attached outer leaves in the ground may allow the plant to produce a “second crop.” Smaller, secondary heads often develop from the leaf axils along the remaining stem, providing a later, reduced yield of miniature cabbages.