Bermuda grass is a popular choice for turf in warm climates due to its robust characteristics. As a warm-season grass, it actively grows from late spring through the hot summer months, thriving in regions with high average daily temperatures. This turf is particularly valued for its fast-growing, dense nature, which allows it to withstand and quickly recover from heavy foot traffic. Once fully established, Bermuda grass develops an extensive root system, providing it with exceptional durability and natural tolerance to drought conditions.
Preparing the Soil for Establishment
Preparing the soil before planting is crucial for long-term success with Bermuda grass. The process begins with a comprehensive soil test to determine the existing pH level and nutrient composition. Bermuda grass performs best in a slightly acidic to neutral soil environment, ideally with a pH range between 5.8 and 7.0.
If the soil test indicates a pH outside this range, amendments like lime (to raise pH) or elemental sulfur (to lower pH) should be incorporated into the soil. Before any planting, the area must be cleared of existing weeds or turf, a process that can be achieved using a non-selective herbicide or through physical removal methods such as tilling.
After clearing the area, the ground should be tilled to a depth of four to six inches to loosen compacted soil and improve drainage, allowing for the easy incorporation of soil amendments or organic matter. Finally, the surface must be raked and leveled to create a smooth, uniform seedbed, ensuring optimal contact for seeds or a flat base for sod.
Choosing the Best Planting Method
The three main methods for establishing a Bermuda grass lawn—seed, sod, and sprigs/plugs—offer different trade-offs in cost and time to establishment. Planting by seed is the most cost-effective option, though it is the slowest to mature into a dense turf. Common Bermuda grass seeds should be broadcast over the prepared soil and lightly raked into the top 1/8 inch of soil to ensure good seed-to-soil contact before the area is firmed with a roller.
Laying sod provides the fastest path to a finished lawn, offering immediate coverage and density, but it is also the most expensive method. Sod pieces should be laid tightly together on the leveled soil, staggering the seams like bricks. The sod must then be rolled to press out air pockets and ensure the grass roots are in full contact with the underlying soil for rapid rooting.
Sprigs (pieces of stems and rhizomes) or plugs (small sections of sod with roots) offer an intermediate option in terms of both cost and establishment speed. Plugs should be planted into the soil at a uniform depth, typically spaced 9 to 12 inches apart in a staggered pattern. Since the grass spreads aggressively through stolons and rhizomes, these vegetative pieces will eventually fill in the gaps and form a continuous turf.
Initial Watering and Fertilization
The first four to six weeks following planting require an intense, high-frequency watering schedule to ensure successful establishment. For seeded areas or sprigs, the soil surface must be kept continuously moist until germination occurs, which typically requires light watering three to four times daily, applying about 1/8 inch of water during each session.
As the seedlings grow to about one inch tall, the watering frequency can be gradually reduced to one deep watering per day, providing approximately 1/4 inch of water. Sod and plugs also require diligent watering immediately after installation to encourage root penetration into the soil. Sprigs must be watered within 30 minutes of planting. The goal is to transition from keeping the surface moist to encouraging the roots to seek deeper water sources.
Initial fertilization should use a high-phosphorus “starter” fertilizer applied just before or during the planting process. Phosphorus (the middle number in the N-P-K ratio) is crucial during this phase because it directly supports vigorous root development. A second application of a maintenance fertilizer can follow approximately four to eight weeks after germination to support continued shoot growth.
Ongoing Seasonal Maintenance
Once the Bermuda grass is fully established, maintenance shifts to a consistent seasonal schedule. The defining requirement for a high-quality Bermuda lawn is frequent mowing at a low height setting, ideally between 1 and 1.5 inches. During the peak summer growing season, this may necessitate mowing every five to seven days to ensure that no more than one-third of the grass blade is removed in a single cut.
The established lawn benefits from deep, infrequent watering, which encourages the development of a resilient, deep root system. The general guideline is to provide a total of 1 to 1.5 inches of water per week, including natural rainfall. Watering deeply in the early morning promotes water absorption and minimizes the risk of fungal disease by allowing the leaf blades to dry throughout the day.
Fertilization throughout the growing season should focus on nitrogen, which promotes the grass’s characteristic lush, green color and dense growth. A typical schedule involves applying 0.5 to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet several times during the active growth period, from late spring through early fall. It is important to cease nitrogen applications several weeks before the first expected frost to prevent new growth that would be vulnerable to cold damage.