Beets, a versatile root vegetable, thrive in cooler conditions, making their cultivation in Texas challenging due to the state’s intense and prolonged heat. Successfully growing them requires a tailored approach that respects local climate fluctuations. The primary difficulty lies in managing the transition periods between the mild Texas winter and the sudden, scorching summer, which can cause plants to prematurely “bolt” or fail to form proper roots. By focusing on specific regional planting times, adjusting soil composition, and managing water and temperature, Texas gardeners can achieve a consistent and rewarding harvest of both the roots and the edible greens.
Timing the Planting Schedule
Beets are a cool-season crop, performing optimally when soil temperatures remain between 50°F and 80°F for germination and growth. The most reliable planting window in Texas is late summer or early fall, allowing beets to mature during the mild winter and early spring. Gardeners typically plant seeds from late August through October, aiming for a harvest 50 to 70 days later, from late fall to early spring.
A secondary planting window opens in late winter or early spring, generally from February to mid-March, particularly in North and Central Texas. This timing aims for a late spring harvest before the summer heat sets in, though a sudden hot spell can ruin the crop. In the warmest regions, such as South Texas, beets can often be grown throughout the entire winter, offering a continuous harvest.
Avoid planting during the sustained summer heat from June through August, when high soil temperatures lead to poor germination and bitterness. Continuous supply can be achieved by successive plantings every two to three weeks within the optimal fall and spring windows. Regional adaptation is important, as the Gulf Coast has a much longer growing season than the Panhandle, where the ground may freeze.
Soil and Seed Preparation
Beets require deep, loose, and well-draining soil to ensure the root can expand into its characteristic round shape without obstruction. Gardeners should spade or till the soil eight to ten inches deep, removing rocks or large debris that could cause roots to become tough or misshapen. Since much of Texas has heavy clay soil, incorporating a one- to two-inch layer of compost or other organic matter is essential to improve drainage and aeration.
The correct nutrient balance is important for root development; beets primarily need phosphorus and potassium to support underground growth. Avoid using fertilizers high in nitrogen, as this prioritizes the growth of greens at the expense of the root. Seeds should be sown about a half-inch deep and one to two inches apart in the row, with rows separated by about 12 inches.
Each beet “seed” is actually a cluster of two to six individual seeds (a multigerm seed), meaning multiple seedlings often sprout from one spot. Thinning the seedlings is necessary once they reach about two inches tall to allow roots enough space to develop fully. Thinning involves removing the weaker seedlings until the remaining plants are spaced three to four inches apart. This is best done by snipping them at the soil line to avoid disturbing the roots of the keepers.
Managing Growth in Texas Climate
Consistent and deep watering is the most important cultural practice for growing beets successfully in the Texas climate. Irregular moisture, especially combined with high temperatures, causes stress that can trigger the plant to bolt (prematurely go to seed), rendering the roots woody and inedible. Beets should receive at least one inch of water per week, ensuring the moisture penetrates deeply, as their taproots can extend 36 inches or more.
A heavy layer of organic mulch is recommended to regulate soil temperature and conserve moisture. Mulching keeps the root zone cooler during warm spells and minimizes evaporation, providing a stable environment for root formation. Weed control is important, but shallow cultivation is necessary to avoid damaging the beet’s sensitive, shallow root system.
Gardeners must watch for common pests like flea beetles and leaf miners, which target the foliage. Flea beetles create numerous tiny holes that weaken the plant, while leaf miners tunnel through the leaves. Non-chemical control methods, such as utilizing row covers to physically block pests or applying insecticidal soap, are effective ways to protect the crop.
Harvesting and Storage
Beets can be harvested at various stages, depending on the preference for root size and tenderness. Most varieties are ready for harvest between 50 and 70 days after planting, when the root diameter ranges from one and a half to three inches. Roots that grow larger than a golf ball or three inches in diameter may become tough and woody, so it is best to check the size by gently brushing the soil away from the crown.
The greens are highly nutritious and can be harvested throughout the growing season by taking one or two mature outer leaves per plant without harming the root. When harvesting the root, use a garden fork or spade to loosen the soil around the beet, then gently pull the root from the ground by gripping the base of the greens.
For short-term storage, cut off the beet greens, leaving about an inch of the stem attached to the root to prevent “bleeding” of color and nutrients. The unwashed roots store well in a plastic bag in the refrigerator’s crisper drawer for up to two months, where the cool, humid conditions mimic a root cellar. The fresh greens can be stored separately in an airtight container for a few days, or they can be blanched and frozen for long-term use, treating them much like Swiss chard or spinach.