Asparagus is a perennial vegetable prized for its tender spring spears, which can be harvested from the same planting for decades. Cultivating this long-lived crop in Florida, however, presents unique environmental challenges that require specific horticultural adjustments. The state’s warm climate and naturally poor soil conditions mean that traditional growing methods must be adapted to achieve a successful asparagus bed.
Addressing the Florida Climate Challenge
Asparagus plants typically require a period of winter dormancy, or chill hours, to regenerate and store energy for the next season’s growth. Florida’s mild, subtropical winters often do not provide the prolonged, continuous cold necessary for this deep rest cycle. Without this adequate dormant period, the underground storage organs, known as crowns, become weakened over time.
The result is that plants produce thinner, more spindly, and sometimes woody spears instead of the thick, succulent shoots desired for harvest. This lack of a true winter forces Florida growers to select varieties that perform well in low-chill environments and to focus on rigorous soil and maintenance regimes to compensate for the climatic stress.
Selecting Varieties and Preparing the Site
Success in Florida begins with selecting heat-tolerant varieties that do not rely heavily on cold dormancy. The ‘UC 157’ cultivar is a top recommendation for warm climates, having been bred for tolerance to heat and disease. Other cultivars like ‘Atlas’ and ‘Apollo’ also perform better in high-temperature conditions than traditional varieties like ‘Mary Washington’.
Florida’s sandy native soil is generally low in organic matter and nutrients, and it drains water rapidly. Asparagus requires soil that is rich and well-draining, with a pH that is neutral to slightly acidic, ideally between 6.5 and 7.0. Preparing the site involves heavily amending the existing soil with substantial amounts of organic matter, such as compost and well-rotted manure, to improve water retention and fertility.
Constructing raised beds is often necessary to ensure superior drainage and to easily incorporate the required organic amendments. The planting location must receive full, direct sunlight for at least eight hours daily to support the robust fern growth required for crown establishment. These preparations must be completed before planting, as asparagus is a long-term investment.
Planting Techniques and Initial Establishment
The optimal time to plant asparagus crowns in Florida is typically in the late fall or early winter. This timing allows the crowns to establish root systems during the cooler months before the onset of summer heat. One-year-old bare-root crowns are preferred over older crowns, as they establish more quickly.
To plant the crowns, dig a trench approximately 6 to 8 inches deep and 12 inches wide. Build a small mound of amended soil down the center of the trench, and place the crown on top with the roots spread out evenly over the sides. The crown should be covered with only about two inches of soil initially, leaving the rest of the trench partially open.
As the first spears emerge and grow into ferns, soil is gradually added to the trench over several months until it is filled to ground level. This gradual filling method encourages the development of stronger root systems and deeper crown placement, which provides better protection. New plantings require consistent watering to keep the soil evenly moist for the first few months while the young roots establish themselves.
Ongoing Maintenance and Harvesting
Asparagus is a heavy feeder, a trait amplified by Florida’s fast-draining soil, necessitating a consistent fertilization schedule. A balanced fertilizer, such as a 10-10-10 blend, should be broadcast in the early spring before new spears appear and again after the harvest period concludes. This secondary feeding supports the development of the ferns, which photosynthesize and store energy in the crowns for the next year’s harvest.
The feathery, fern-like foliage must be allowed to grow freely throughout the spring and summer, as it is the plant’s energy factory. Only after the ferns naturally yellow and die back, typically in the late fall or early winter, should they be cut down to the ground. This process ensures maximum energy transfer back to the crown, supporting the plant’s long-term health in a low-chill environment.
Pest management focuses on the common asparagus beetle, which feeds on the spears and ferns. Daily handpicking of the adult beetles and their dark brown eggs is an effective organic control method. Another challenge is asparagus rust, a fungal disease, though heat-tolerant varieties like ‘UC 157’ offer some resistance.
Patience is required for harvesting, as the crowns must be fully established before any spears are cut. Spears should not be harvested at all in the first year after planting to allow the crown to grow strong. Only a very light harvest, lasting one to two weeks, should occur in the second year if the plants are vigorous. The first full harvest can begin in the third year, cutting or snapping spears when they are six to eight inches tall and before the tips begin to open.