Apricot trees (Prunus armeniaca) yield sweet, flavorful stone fruit harvests that are often superior to store-bought varieties. While they are generous producers, apricots are sensitive to their environment, requiring careful planning and specific maintenance practices for success. Growing these trees demands attention to detail, particularly regarding climate suitability and precise pruning, but the result is a bounty of fruit that can be enjoyed fresh, dried, or preserved.
Climate and Variety Selection
The most important factor for apricot tree success is selecting a variety that matches the local climate, especially regarding winter temperatures and “chill hours.” Chill hours refer to the total duration of temperatures between 32°F and 45°F (0°C and 7°C) required during dormancy for proper bud break and subsequent fruiting. Cultivars are classified as low-chill (under 500 hours), medium-chill (500–700 hours), or high-chill (over 700 hours). Planting a tree that does not receive its required chill will result in poor flowering and minimal fruit set.
Apricots are among the earliest fruit trees to bloom, making them highly susceptible to damage from late spring frosts. In regions with unpredictable spring weather, choosing a later-blooming variety, such as ‘Harcot’ or ‘Chinese’ (‘Mormon’), can reduce the risk of frost damage. Most modern apricot varieties are self-fruitful, meaning they do not require a second tree for pollination, though planting a concurrent-blooming partner can increase the overall yield. Varieties like ‘Katy’ (200-300 chill hours) suit warmer climates, while ‘Tilton’ or ‘Moorpark’ (600+ chill hours) are better for colder regions.
Planting and Initial Establishment
Apricot trees demand full sunlight for at least six hours daily and soil with excellent drainage, as they are intolerant of wet, heavy conditions that cause root rot. The soil should ideally have a pH between 6.5 and 7.5. Testing the soil before planting allows for the adjustment of nutrient deficiencies or pH imbalances. If the native soil drains poorly, planting the tree on a slight mound or slope helps elevate the roots and prevents water accumulation.
When planting, dig a hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper. Ensure the tree is positioned so the root flare is just above the surrounding soil line. For grafted trees, the graft union—the slight bulge where the cultivar meets the rootstock—should remain two to four inches above the soil surface. Immediately after planting, water thoroughly and deeply to settle the soil and eliminate air pockets around the roots.
During the first 12 months, focus on establishing a strong root system. Newly planted trees should not receive fertilizer, as it can burn tender roots. Consistent moisture is necessary, requiring regular watering during dry spells, often twice per week in the first season. Apply a two to four-inch layer of organic mulch, such as wood chips, around the base of the tree, keeping it several inches away from the trunk to prevent moisture buildup and disease.
Ongoing Care and Pruning Requirements
Once established, ongoing care focuses on seasonal maintenance and specialized pruning. Watering is crucial, especially in early to mid-summer when fruit is swelling, requiring about two inches of water per week for mature trees during drought. Irrigation methods that apply water near the base, such as drip systems, are preferable because they keep the canopy dry and mitigate the spread of foliar diseases.
Fertilization typically begins after the tree starts bearing fruit, usually two to five years after planting. Nitrogen is the most frequently limited nutrient, encouraging vegetative growth. A balanced fertilizer can be applied in early spring as growth resumes. While soil testing determines specific needs, a general application of compost or a balanced fruit tree fertilizer often provides the necessary nutrients.
Pruning is the most important aspect of apricot care, as these trees produce fruit on short shoots called spurs that remain productive for up to five years. The main goal is to maintain an open canopy, usually trained to an open vase or modified central leader system, ensuring sunlight penetration and good air circulation. This helps prevent common issues like brown rot, a fungal disease affecting fruit and blossoms.
The ideal time for major structural pruning is in late winter or early spring, just as the tree is breaking dormancy, which minimizes the risk of fungal infections. In established trees, about 25% of the branches should be removed annually. Focus on removing dead, diseased, or crossing wood, and thinning out older, less productive spurs. Summer pruning, performed after harvest, can manage the tree’s overall size.