Lantana, a vibrant, heat-loving shrub, can be transformed into an elegant, flowering “tree” through training it as a standard or topiary. This method involves cultivating a single, straight trunk topped by a dense, rounded crown of foliage and continuous blooms. Lantana standards are popular for container gardening, allowing gardeners in cooler climates to enjoy their prolific, multi-colored flowers on patios and decks throughout the warm season.
Selecting and Preparing the Starter Plant
The process begins with selecting a young, vigorous plant, often called a “whip,” which has a single, straight central stem. For a container-grown standard, choose a pot that is initially proportional to the plant’s size (1 to 3-gallon) with excellent drainage holes. The final container for a mature standard will likely be between 10 and 15 gallons, depending on the desired size. Lantana thrives in well-draining soil, so use a high-quality, all-purpose potting mix amended with perlite or sand to enhance porosity.
Place the newly potted lantana in a location that receives at least six to eight hours of direct sunlight daily; this is necessary for robust growth and prolific flowering. While lantana tolerates a wide range of soil conditions, providing a slightly acidic to neutral pH (6.0–7.0) in the container supports optimal nutrient uptake. Allow the plant to settle and establish a healthy root system for several weeks before beginning structural training.
Training the Standard Form
Structural training requires consistent effort to mold the shrub into a tree-like shape. Secure the main stem, or central leader, to a sturdy stake that is approximately the height of the final desired trunk. The stake must be plunged deep into the pot and secured to the plant at several points using soft ties. Ensure the ties are looped in a figure-eight pattern to prevent the stem from rubbing against the support. Periodically check and loosen these ties as the trunk thickens to avoid girdling the stem.
As the plant grows upward, systematically remove all lateral side shoots and leaves from the bottom two-thirds of the stem to create a clear, woody trunk. This lateral pruning redirects the plant’s energy into vertical growth and trunk development. Once the stem reaches the desired height for the crown (often two to four feet), begin “pinching” the top growth. Pinching involves removing the very tips of the main stem and new side branches, which releases apical dominance and encourages side branching.
Continue to pinch the terminal growth of new shoots on the crown regularly throughout the growing season to promote maximum branch density and flower bud production. Any new growth that appears on the clear trunk below the crown must be immediately pruned away to maintain the standard form. Consistent attention to staking and pruning is necessary for the first one to two seasons until the trunk is thick and self-supporting.
Essential Ongoing Cultural Care
Once established, routine cultural care focuses on maintaining the lantana standard’s health and maximizing bloom production. While lantana is relatively drought-tolerant once mature, container plants require attentive watering. Water deeply when the top inch or two of soil feels dry, ensuring the entire root ball is saturated. Allow the soil to dry slightly before the next watering cycle. Consistent moisture is important during intense heat and active flowering.
Container-grown lantana standards are heavy feeders because frequent watering leaches out nutrients. During the active growing season (spring through early fall), apply a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer, such as a 20-20-20 formula, every four to six weeks. Avoid high-nitrogen fertilizers, which promote leafy growth at the expense of flowers. Monitoring for common pests, such as whiteflies and spider mites, is also necessary, especially in sheltered or less airy locations.
If an infestation of whiteflies or spider mites is detected, prompt treatment with an insecticidal soap or horticultural oil can usually bring the pest population under control. Proper cultural care, including adequate sunlight and air circulation, serves as the first line of defense against these common garden pests.
Seasonal Maintenance and Overwintering
Maintaining the spherical shape of the crown requires light, continuous pruning throughout the blooming season. The best technique is to selectively pinch or snip back new shoots just above a leaf node. This encourages bushiness and removes spent flower clusters, a process known as deadheading. Avoid shearing the crown like a hedge, as this can remove potential flower buds and result in a less floriferous appearance.
For gardeners in climates with frost (typically USDA Zones 7 and colder), the lantana standard must be prepared for indoor dormancy. Starting in early fall, gradually reduce the frequency of both watering and fertilization to signal the plant to slow its growth. Before the first expected hard frost, prune the crown back by up to one-third to one-half of its size to make the plant more manageable indoors.
Bring the container inside to a cool, dark location, such as an unheated garage or basement, where temperatures remain consistently above freezing (ideally 40 to 50 degrees Fahrenheit). In this cooler environment, the lantana enters semi-dormancy and requires minimal water, perhaps once a month, just enough to prevent the soil from completely drying out. Alternatively, a bright, cool sunroom or south-facing window can be used, but the plant will require more light and water, and pest monitoring will be more important.