The Pothos, or Epipremnum aureum, is a highly resilient houseplant prized for its ease of care and trailing foliage. This species is commonly known as Devil’s Ivy due to its ability to remain green even in low light and its persistence in growth. While typically grown in soil, the Pothos is one of the few houseplants that can be sustained indefinitely in a purely aquatic environment. Successfully growing and maintaining a Pothos in water is a simple, aesthetically pleasing method that relies on understanding specific care requirements. This guide details the steps necessary for successful water propagation and long-term maintenance.
Selecting and Preparing Pothos Cuttings
Selecting a healthy vine section requires ensuring the cutting includes at least one node, which is the small, slightly raised bump on the stem where the leaf meets the vine. This node contains the meristematic tissue necessary for root initiation.
The cut should be made using sterilized scissors or pruning shears to prevent the introduction of pathogens into the wound. Snip the vine about half an inch to one inch below a node to maximize the surface area for root growth. Cuttings should ideally be four to six inches long and possess two to four leaves, as the leaves are necessary for photosynthesis to support the new growth.
Any leaves that would be submerged in the water must be carefully removed, as submerged foliage will rot quickly. This decay introduces harmful bacteria and promotes an anaerobic environment. Place the prepared cutting into a clean vessel, such as a clear glass jar, ensuring the node is fully submerged but the remaining leaves are above the waterline. Room-temperature tap water is generally acceptable, though filtered water can reduce mineral buildup over time.
Initial Root Development and Placement
Pothos cuttings root most successfully when placed in a location that receives bright, indirect light. Direct midday sun should be avoided, as it can overheat the water and scorch the leaves.
An ideal temperature range for rooting is between 65°F and 85°F, which is typical for most indoor environments. Consistent warmth supports the metabolic processes needed for new root cells to form. Within the first two to four weeks, small white nubs, which are the root initials, should begin to appear at the submerged nodes.
Failure to root is often indicated by cloudiness in the water or a soft, dark discoloration of the submerged stem, which signals rot. If the water becomes murky or develops an odor before roots form, a full water replacement is necessary to refresh the oxygen supply. The roots should be allowed to grow several inches long before considering a long-term care routine.
Sustaining Pothos Health in Water
Consistent maintenance is required to compensate for the lack of soil nutrients and oxygen. The most important recurring task is refreshing the water to prevent stagnation and replenish dissolved oxygen. It is generally recommended to change the water entirely every two to three weeks, or simply top it off with fresh water weekly. Regular water changes also help remove accumulated metabolic waste products excreted by the roots.
While the Pothos can survive on the trace minerals present in tap water, growth will eventually slow down due to a lack of macronutrients. To support sustained, vigorous growth, a highly diluted liquid fertilizer formulated for general houseplants should be added. Use a concentration of about one-quarter of the recommended strength, and apply it only once every few months during the active growing season.
Over-fertilization can quickly burn the sensitive water roots or contribute to excessive algae growth. Algae may naturally form on the inside of the vessel, but excessive buildup should be removed by gently cleaning the container walls when changing the water.
Monitor the roots for signs of distress; healthy water roots are firm and white. A brown or slimy appearance indicates potential rot, which requires trimming the affected area and immediately replacing the water. Yellowing leaves can signal a nutrient deficiency or too much direct light. Adjusting the light source or adding a small dose of diluted fertilizer can often correct this discoloration.