Bermuda grass is the most popular warm-season turf for lawns across Texas due to its remarkable resilience. This turfgrass is exceptionally well-suited to the state’s intense summer heat and frequent dry spells, exhibiting superior drought and wear tolerance. Its aggressive growth habit allows it to recover quickly from damage, forming a dense turf when properly maintained. Establishing a thriving Bermuda lawn requires a focused approach to preparation, planting, and long-term care.
Preparing the Ground and Timing the Planting
The foundation for a successful Bermuda lawn begins with thorough soil preparation. Soil testing is the first step, revealing the existing pH level and any nutrient deficiencies. Bermuda grass thrives in a slightly acidic to neutral range, ideally between a pH of 6.5 and 7.0, and amendments like lime or sulfur may be needed to adjust this balance.
The planting area must be completely cleared of all existing turf and weeds, often requiring a non-selective herbicide application several weeks in advance. After the vegetation has died, the soil should be tilled to a depth of at least six inches to alleviate compaction and improve root penetration. This deep tilling provides the best environment for the aggressive rhizomes and stolons to spread and establish.
Timing the planting is governed by soil warmth, which is crucial for this warm-season species. The optimal window in Texas is from late spring through mid-summer, typically May into August. During this time, soil temperatures consistently reach 65°F to 75°F. Planting early ensures the young grass develops a robust root system before the first frost.
Choosing a Method and Establishing the Turf
Homeowners have three primary methods for starting a Bermuda grass lawn, differing in cost, time to establishment, and quality. Planting by seed is the most economical option, especially for large areas, but it is the slowest to establish. Seeds must be lightly raked into the prepared soil to ensure good seed-to-soil contact for successful germination.
A mid-range option involves planting vegetative material, such as sprigs or plugs, which are small pieces of stolons or sod. Sprigs are broadcast over the soil and lightly covered, while plugs are inserted at regular intervals. This method is often used for higher-quality, sterile hybrid varieties, which offer a finer texture and denser growth habit.
Laying sod provides the fastest and most uniform result, instantly creating a mature lawn, though it is the most expensive method. Regardless of the method chosen, the establishment phase requires an intensive watering regimen for the first four to six weeks. The goal is to keep the top inch of soil continuously moist. This necessitates frequent, light watering sessions, often two to four times daily. This constant surface moisture supports initial root development.
Essential Ongoing Maintenance Regimen
Once established, the maintenance regimen shifts to promote long-term health and deep root growth. Watering must transition to a deep, infrequent approach, providing about one inch of water per week through irrigation or rainfall. This deep soaking encourages roots to grow downward, increasing drought tolerance during Texas summer heat. Watering should be done in the early morning hours to minimize evaporation and allow leaf blades to dry before nightfall, deterring fungal diseases.
Bermuda grass is a high-input turf requiring significant nitrogen fertilization to maintain its dense, dark green appearance. Apply a high-nitrogen fertilizer, typically 0.5 to 1 pound of actual nitrogen per 1,000 square feet, three to four times during the active growing season. Applications begin in late spring after the grass greens up, followed by feedings in early summer, mid-summer, and early fall. Using a slow-release nitrogen source provides a steady nutrient supply and reduces the risk of burning the turf.
Mowing is arguably the most important factor for a high-quality Bermuda lawn, demanding a low-cut height and high frequency. Home lawns should be mowed to a height between one and two inches. This short cut requires mowing at least once, and often twice, per week during the peak growing season. This frequency adheres to the rule of never removing more than one-third of the grass blade height in a single session. Maintaining a short, consistent height encourages the lateral spread that creates a dense lawn.
Managing Common Texas Lawn Afflictions
Despite its toughness, Bermuda grass is susceptible to several common Texas lawn issues, particularly fungal diseases that thrive in the state’s humidity.
Fungal Diseases
Brown patch appears as circular patches of dying grass, prevalent during the cooler, damp conditions of early spring and fall. Dollar spot is often seen when grass is stressed by drought or excessive moisture, manifesting as small, straw-colored spots on the blades. Remediation involves applying a turf-appropriate fungicide and correcting underlying environmental factors, such as adjusting watering practices to ensure the grass surface dries quickly.
Pest Infestations
Pest infestations are a recurring challenge, with grub worms and armyworms being two of the most destructive. Grub worms feed on the grass roots, causing the turf to lift easily like a carpet. Armyworms devour the leaf tissue, often causing damage overnight. Correct identification is necessary, followed by the timely application of an insecticide specific to the pest.
Winter Dormancy
As temperatures cool in late fall, Bermuda grass enters its natural dormancy, turning a tan or brown color as growth stops. During this dormant phase, which lasts through the winter, the grass requires no fertilizer and minimal water. It only needs enough moisture to prevent the root system from completely drying out. Attempting to force growth or fertilize a dormant lawn is ineffective and can promote winter weed growth.