The Vigoro Spathiphyllum, commonly known as the Peace Lily, is a popular houseplant known for its deep green foliage and distinctive white, sail-like blooms. Originating from the humid, shaded forest floors of Central and South America, this plant is naturally suited to indoor conditions. This guide provides instructions on recreating the ideal tropical environment and maintaining the long-term health of your Spathiphyllum.
Environmental Requirements
Successful cultivation requires establishing a habitat that mimics the plant’s native understory environment. While the plant can tolerate low light levels, prolonged dim conditions hinder its ability to produce white spathes. For consistent flowering, the plant requires bright, indirect light, such as near an east-facing window or a few feet away from a south or west exposure. Avoid direct, intense sunlight entirely, as the thin leaf tissue is susceptible to scorching, which appears as bleached or brown patches.
Maintaining a stable and warm temperature is important for the plant’s metabolic processes. The ideal range is between 65° and 80°F, aligning with typical indoor household temperatures. Keep the plant away from drafty doors, cold windows, or the direct flow of air conditioning or heating vents, which cause temperature extremes that stress the foliage. The Spathiphyllum thrives in higher humidity, ideally above 40%. To increase moisture, place the pot on a shallow tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot bottom does not sit directly in the water.
Essential Care Routine
A precise watering approach is key to Spathiphyllum care, as the plant signals its thirst by dramatically drooping its large leaves. This visual cue indicates a temporary lack of turgor pressure and means the plant should be watered immediately; it typically recovers its upright posture within a few hours. Rather than waiting for the droop, check the soil moisture by inserting a finger about one inch deep into the potting mix. Water thoroughly once the top layer of soil feels dry to the touch, ensuring excess water drains freely from the pot’s base.
The quality of the water significantly impacts the plant’s long-term health. Spathiphyllum plants are sensitive to mineral salts, chlorine, and fluoride often present in standard tap water. Continued use of hard water leads to a buildup of these chemicals in the soil, manifesting as brown tips or edges on the leaves. Using distilled, filtered, or collected rainwater prevents this chemical toxicity and supports healthier foliage. Since the Spathiphyllum is not a heavy feeder, minimal fertilization is recommended during its active growth period in spring and summer. Apply a balanced, water-soluble houseplant fertilizer every six to eight weeks, diluted to half the strength recommended on the product label.
Growth Management and Maintenance
Periodic maintenance manages the plant’s size, appearance, and vigor. Repotting is required when the plant becomes root-bound, indicated by roots circling the pot or emerging from drainage holes. This task is best performed in the spring during the active growth phase. Select a container only one to two inches larger in diameter than the previous one, as an excessively large pot holds too much moisture. The potting medium should be a high-quality, well-draining mix, often enhanced with perlite or fine bark to ensure good aeration.
Pruning focuses on removing older, spent parts to redirect energy toward new growth. Faded or brown flower spathes should be cut back close to the base of the plant once they are no longer white; this process, known as deadheading, encourages new blooms. Any leaves that have turned completely yellow or brown should be trimmed off at the soil line to keep the plant tidy. Propagation is easily achieved through division, often done concurrently with repotting a mature plant. The root ball is gently separated into smaller clumps, ensuring each new section retains healthy roots and several leaves before being planted in its own container.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Visual symptoms on the foliage often indicate that the environment or care routine needs adjustment. Brown leaf tips are common, frequently linked to low atmospheric humidity or the accumulation of mineral salts from tap water. Increasing humidity or switching to filtered water prevents new leaf growth from developing brown edges. Yellowing leaves can signal several problems, most commonly overwatering, which starves the roots of oxygen and can lead to root rot. Yellowing can also be a sign of natural aging, where older, lower leaves are shed, or, less commonly, an excess of light that causes the foliage to lose its deep green coloration.
A failure to bloom, where the plant produces only green leaves, is almost always a result of insufficient light. While the plant survives in low-light areas, it requires bright, indirect light to accumulate the energy necessary for flowering. Moving the plant gradually to a brighter spot usually triggers new blooms over time. Pests like spider mites and mealybugs can sometimes infest the plant, often congregating on the undersides of the leaves or in tight crevices. If identified, pests can be controlled by wiping the leaves with a damp cloth or treating them with a gentle horticultural soap solution.