The ‘Victoria Ann’ dahlia is a popular tuberous-rooted perennial, known for its prolific blooming and vibrant bi-colored flowers. It adds significant aesthetic appeal to any garden space, making it a rewarding plant to cultivate.
Unique Characteristics of Victoria Ann Dahlia
The ‘Victoria Ann’ dahlia stands out with its distinct bloom and growth habit. It features formal decorative style blooms, typically 5 inches across, displaying a captivating blend of white and lavender-purple with a purple center and tips. This creates a cool, striking presence in the garden.
This variety is an early and prolific bloomer, producing many flowers throughout the season. The plant reaches 5 to 5.5 feet (90 cm to 1.5 meters) tall, making it a notable addition to garden beds. Its long-lasting blooms are also excellent for cut flower arrangements.
Cultivating Victoria Ann Dahlias
Successfully growing ‘Victoria Ann’ dahlias requires attention to their environmental needs from planting through the growing season. Providing the right conditions ensures robust plants and abundant flowering.
Site Selection and Soil Preparation
Dahlias thrive in locations receiving 6 to 8 hours of direct sun daily. While full sun is acceptable, some protection from intense afternoon heat can help preserve blooms. The soil should be well-draining, rich in organic matter, and have a pH between 6.0 and 7.5, ideally slightly acidic to neutral (6.5 to 7.0). Amending the soil with compost or well-rotted manure before planting improves drainage and fertility.
Planting Instructions
Planting of ‘Victoria Ann’ dahlia tubers should occur after the threat of frost has completely passed and when the soil temperature consistently reaches about 60°F (15°C). Dig a hole 4 to 6 inches deep and wide enough to accommodate the tuber, placing the “eyes” or growth points facing upwards. Space tubers 12 to 18 inches apart for larger varieties, allowing sufficient room for growth and air circulation. After placing the tuber, gently backfill the hole with a few inches of soil, covering it completely.
Watering and Fertilizing
After planting, avoid watering tubers unless the soil is exceptionally dry, as too much moisture can lead to rot. Once sprouts emerge and establish, deep watering is required, typically 2 to 3 times per week, especially during hot, dry periods. Water should reach 8 to 10 inches deep.
Dahlias are heavy feeders and benefit from consistent fertilization. Begin fertilizing about 30 days after planting, or once sprouts appear. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer with a higher percentage of phosphorus and potassium, such as a 5-10-10 ratio. Apply fertilizer every 3 to 4 weeks throughout the growing season.
Support and Deadheading
Due to their height and bloom weight, ‘Victoria Ann’ dahlias often require support to prevent stems from breaking. Staking should be done at planting to avoid damaging tubers later. Common support methods include individual stakes (wood, metal, or bamboo) placed about 3 inches from the plant, or the “corral method” with stakes and twine. As the plant grows, tie main stems loosely to the support every 12 inches.
Deadheading, the removal of spent flowers, encourages continuous blooming and maintains plant vigor. Regularly remove faded blooms by cutting the stem back to a strong leaf joint or side shoot. This redirects the plant’s energy to producing more flowers.
Managing Pests and Diseases
Dahlias can be susceptible to various pests. Common pests include slugs, snails, earwigs, aphids, spider mites, and thrips. Slugs and snails can be deterred with barriers or traps, especially when new shoots emerge. Aphids and spider mites are often controlled with insecticidal soaps or by blasting them off with water. Keeping the garden tidy and promoting good air circulation helps prevent infestations.
Common diseases affecting dahlias include powdery mildew, verticillium wilt, and crown rot. Powdery mildew appears as a white, powdery substance on leaves and can be managed by improving air circulation, reducing overhead watering, and applying fungicides or homemade solutions. Crown rot is often linked to excessive moisture, so ensuring good drainage is crucial. Removing infected plant parts and maintaining garden hygiene can limit the spread of diseases.
Winterizing and Storing Dahlia Tubers
In regions with freezing winter temperatures (USDA Zones 3-7), ‘Victoria Ann’ dahlia tubers need to be dug up and stored indoors. After the first hard frost blackens the foliage, cut stalks back to 4 to 6 inches above ground. Allow tubers to remain in the ground for one to two weeks after frost to cure and toughen their skin for storage.
Carefully dig up tuber clumps, gently removing excess soil. Allow tubers to air dry for several days in a cool, well-ventilated area away from direct sunlight. Once dry, store them in a cool, dark, frost-free location where temperatures remain between 40-50°F (4-10°C) with 80-90% humidity. Store in peat moss, sawdust, or vermiculite in cardboard boxes, paper bags, or plastic bins, ensuring good air circulation. Regularly check tubers throughout winter for rot or shriveling, removing any affected ones.
Multiplying Your Victoria Ann Dahlias
Multiplying ‘Victoria Ann’ dahlias is achieved through tuber division, which promotes healthier plants and more vigorous blooms. This process separates stored tuber clumps into individual viable tubers, each capable of growing into a new plant.
The best time to divide dahlia tubers is late winter or early spring, just before the new growing season. At this time, small “eyes” or growth points become visible on the tuber’s crown. A viable tuber must have a body, an unbroken neck connecting it to the crown, and at least one eye.
Using a sharp, clean knife or pruners, carefully cut the tuber clump apart. Ensure each division retains a portion of the crown with at least one eye and a healthy tuber. Discard any soft, shriveled, or damaged tubers. Dividing tubers annually or every couple of years improves flower production.