The Lola Plant (Echeveria ‘Lola’) is a highly sought-after succulent hybrid known for its delicate coloration and perfect rosette shape. Its fleshy, spoon-shaped leaves exhibit pale gray-green to lilac hues, frequently dusted with a fine, powdery coating called farina. This coating gives the plant a soft, ethereal appearance, making it a rewarding addition to any collection.
Establishing the Optimal Growing Environment
Proper environmental setup is foundational to the health of the Lola plant, beginning with its light source. This succulent requires a minimum of six hours of bright light daily to maintain its compact form and rich coloration. An ideal placement is a south or west-facing window indoors, where it can receive intense light without the full, scorching intensity of direct midday sun, which can cause sunburn on the leaves. If the plant does not receive enough light, it will begin to “etiolate,” meaning the stem stretches out and the leaves become widely spaced.
Temperature is another defining factor, reflecting the plant’s arid origins. The Lola plant thrives in temperatures generally between 60°F and 80°F. Since it is not tolerant of freezing temperatures, outdoor growers must bring the plant inside when temperatures drop below 30°F to avoid frost damage.
The choice of soil and container is important for managing moisture levels and preventing common issues. Because the Lola plant is highly susceptible to root rot, the potting medium must drain rapidly and dry quickly. A commercial cactus or succulent mix works well, though drainage can be enhanced by amending it with materials like perlite or pumice (up to 50 percent). Always select a container with a drainage hole; unglazed terracotta is an excellent choice as its porous nature helps wick excess moisture away from the soil.
Routine Watering and Feeding Schedule
The most frequent mistake in caring for the Lola plant involves overwatering, necessitating a precise approach to hydration. The preferred method is the “soak and dry” technique, where the plant is watered thoroughly until excess moisture flows out of the drainage hole. The soil must then be allowed to dry out completely—not just on the surface, but throughout the entire pot—before watering again.
Check the soil’s dryness by inserting a finger or wooden skewer deep into the potting mix to ensure no residual moisture remains near the roots. During the active growing season (spring and summer), this cycle may occur every two to three weeks, depending on light and temperature. During the cooler winter months, when the plant enters semi-dormancy, watering frequency must be significantly reduced to prevent fungal diseases.
Fertilization is a minimal requirement for this drought-tolerant species. The Lola plant benefits from light feeding only during its spring and summer growth period, rather than year-round. Use a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer formulated for succulents, diluted to a quarter or half of the recommended strength to avoid chemical burn. Applying this diluted solution once a month during the growing season is sufficient.
Propagation and Addressing Common Plant Issues
The Lola plant is readily propagated, offering a simple way to increase your collection, most commonly using leaf cuttings. To begin, gently twist a healthy leaf from the main stem, ensuring a clean separation without leaving any part of the leaf behind. The separated leaf must then sit in a dry, shaded area for several days until the wound forms a dry, protective layer known as a callus.
Once callused, the leaf can be placed on top of or lightly inserted into well-draining soil, but it should not be buried completely. After several weeks, small roots and a tiny new rosette will emerge from the callused end, indicating successful propagation. Another option is to separate the small offsets, sometimes called pups, that form around the base of the mature plant, potting them individually once they are large enough.
The Lola plant can encounter a few common issues, particularly pests and diseases related to moisture. Root rot is the most serious disease, signaled by leaves that turn yellow, become mushy, and fall off easily, which is a direct consequence of prolonged wet soil. To address this, immediately unpot the plant, trim away any blackened or slimy roots, and repot into completely dry, fresh succulent soil. Common pests include mealybugs (white, cottony masses hidden in leaf crevices) and spider mites (which leave fine webbing and tiny yellow spots on the foliage). Small infestations can be treated by dabbing the pests directly with a cotton swab dipped in 70% isopropyl alcohol, or by spraying the entire plant with neem oil.