The “stone lotus flower” (Echeveria agavoides) is a distinctive succulent known for its compact rosettes of thick, fleshy leaves, resembling a blooming lotus. Its unique form and vibrant colors make it a popular choice for plant collections.
Stone Lotus Flower Characteristics and Varieties
Echeveria agavoides typically develops a compact, stemless rosette, growing 3.1 to 4.7 inches tall with a diameter of 2.8 to 5.9 inches. Its leaves are triangular, thick, and more pointed than many other Echeveria species, hence its name “agavoides,” meaning “resembling an agave.” The foliage is generally a satiny light apple-green, often developing reddish or bronze margins and tips when exposed to bright light.
Several cultivars offer distinct variations. ‘Lipstick’ has bright green leaves with irregular, fiery red edges, intensifying with sun exposure. ‘Ebony’ displays lighter, almost beige or peach leaves with dark brown to burgundy edges. ‘Romeo’ features striking gray-purple leaves with prominent red edges and a terminal spine, often forming clumps.
Stone Lotus Flower Care
Light
Echeveria agavoides thrives in bright light, with nearly full sun ideal for enhancing leaf colors. Outdoors, they tolerate full sun, especially in cooler coastal gardens, but partial shade during hot afternoons prevents scorching. Indoors, a south or west-facing window is suitable; rotate the plant for even light exposure. Insufficient light causes etiolation, leading to stretching and loss of compact rosette shape.
Watering
The “soak and dry” method is recommended for watering Echeveria agavoides. Thoroughly soak the soil until water drains from the bottom, then allow it to dry completely before the next watering. Avoid overwatering, which leads to root rot.
During warmer summer months, plants may require more frequent deep waterings, especially if temperatures exceed 95°F. Reduce watering significantly in winter or during dormant periods, as evaporation rates are lower and growth slows. Apply water directly to the soil to avoid wetting the rosette, which can promote rot.
Soil and Potting
Well-draining soil is essential for Echeveria agavoides to prevent root rot. A good succulent or cactus potting mix is suitable, but amendments improve drainage. Mix in at least 25% to 50% inorganic materials like pumice, perlite, or coarse sand for rapid water shedding and aeration. Terracotta pots are preferred due to their porous nature, allowing better airflow and faster soil drying. Adequate drainage holes are necessary regardless of pot material.
Temperature and Humidity
Echeveria agavoides prefers warm temperatures, ideally 60 to 75 degrees Fahrenheit. They tolerate 40-75°F, with cooler temperatures in fall and winter potentially intensifying colors. These succulents are not frost-tolerant and must be protected from freezing temperatures. Low humidity is generally preferable for optimal growth. High humidity increases the risk of fungal diseases and root rot, so avoid placing them in consistently moist environments like bathrooms or kitchens.
Fertilizing
Fertilizing Echeveria agavoides is generally not required, as they naturally grow in low-nutrient soils. A light application can encourage faster growth, particularly for mature plants.
If fertilizing, do so sparingly, typically once a month during the active growing season (spring and summer). Use a liquid succulent fertilizer or a balanced formula, diluted to half or a quarter strength. Over-fertilizing leads to weak cell tissue and hinders vibrant leaf colors. Cease fertilizing during the plant’s dormant winter months.
Propagating Stone Lotus Flower
Echeveria agavoides can be propagated through leaf cuttings, stem cuttings, and separating offsets. For leaf propagation, select a healthy leaf and gently twist it from the stem, ensuring the entire base is intact. Allow the leaf to dry and callous for a few days to a week to prevent rot before laying it on well-draining soil. Mist the soil lightly when dry until roots and a new rosette form.
Stem cuttings are effective, especially if the plant is leggy. Use a sharp, sterile knife or scissors to cut a stem portion, then allow the cut end to callous for several days. Once calloused, plant the cutting in well-draining succulent soil.
Offsets, or “pups,” often grow around the base of the mature plant. Gently pull or cut these from the mother plant, allow them to dry for one to two days, then replant individually. Offsets often have a higher success rate as they may already possess small roots, aiding faster establishment.
Common Problems and Solutions
Overwatering is a frequent issue for Echeveria agavoides, typically leading to root rot. Symptoms include mushy, yellowing, or browning leaves, and a soft, decaying stem. To address this, remove the plant from its pot, trim any black or mushy roots and stem sections with a clean knife, and allow the plant to dry for several days before repotting into fresh, dry, well-draining soil. Ensuring proper drainage and allowing the soil to dry completely between waterings are the best preventive measures.
Pest infestations, such as mealybugs and spider mites, appear as white, cottony masses or tiny specks on leaves and stems. For mealybugs, dab pests directly with a cotton swab dipped in rubbing alcohol. Regular inspection and good plant hygiene prevent outbreaks.
Etiolation, or stretching, occurs from insufficient light, resulting in elongated stems and sparse leaves. Move the plant to a brighter location with more direct sun to encourage compact growth.
Leaf discoloration or shriveling indicates either underwatering or overwatering. Shriveling leaves suggest thirst, while yellowing, mushy leaves signal too much moisture.
Sunburn, characterized by scorched or discolored leaves, occurs from intense, unacclimated direct sun, especially during extreme heat. Gradually introduce the plant to brighter light to prevent this.