The ‘Sarah Raven’ dahlia is a cherished addition to many gardens, valued for its unique aesthetic and versatility as both a garden specimen and a cut flower. Its rich, deep hues and elegant form can transform borders and bouquets. This dahlia provides consistent beauty throughout the growing season.
Understanding Sarah Raven Dahlia
The ‘Sarah Raven’ dahlia captivates with its distinctive appearance, offering a sophisticated palette to any garden. Its blooms typically feature deep, velvety burgundy to chocolate tones, creating a dramatic visual impact. The petals often display a ruffled or slightly cupped form, contributing to a lush, full appearance. Flowers often range from 4 to 6 inches in diameter, making them ideal for prominent display. The plants generally reach a height of around 3 to 4 feet, providing a substantial presence in the garden.
Planting Sarah Raven Dahlia
Plant ‘Sarah Raven’ dahlia tubers in spring after the last frost, when soil temperature reaches at least 60°F. Planting too early can cause tuber rot in cold, damp soil. Select a location with at least 6 to 8 hours of direct sunlight daily, ideally with morning sun and some afternoon shade in hotter climates to prevent scorching.
Dahlias thrive in rich, well-draining soil. Before planting, amend the soil with organic matter like well-rotted manure or compost, digging it 10 to 12 inches deep to improve drainage and fertility. Dig a hole 4 to 6 inches deep, placing the tuber horizontally with the “eye” or growing point facing upwards. Space tubers 18 to 36 inches apart, depending on the anticipated mature size of the plant, to ensure adequate air circulation and growth. Cover gently with soil, but avoid immediate watering unless the soil is exceptionally dry or in very hot climates, as too much moisture before sprouts appear can cause rot.
Ongoing Care for Sarah Raven Dahlia
Consistent care after planting is important for healthy ‘Sarah Raven’ dahlia growth and abundant blooms. Once the dahlia sprouts emerge and become established, typically reaching 8 to 12 inches tall, begin regular, deep watering. Aim to provide about 1 inch of water per week, ensuring the soil is thoroughly moistened but not waterlogged. Dahlias prefer evenly moist soil, so allow the top layer to dry out slightly between waterings to prevent tuber rot.
Fertilization supports vigorous growth and flowering. About 30 days after planting, or once the plants are 6 inches tall, start a regular feeding schedule. Use a low-nitrogen fertilizer with a higher percentage of phosphorus and potassium (e.g., 5-10-10 or 10-20-20), as too much nitrogen encourages leafy growth at the expense of blooms. Apply fertilizer every 3 to 4 weeks throughout the growing season; container-grown dahlias may need more frequent feeding, every 2 to 3 weeks.
As the plants grow, staking becomes important, especially for taller varieties, to prevent their brittle stems from breaking under the weight of large blooms or strong winds. Insert a sturdy stake near the tuber at planting time to avoid damaging it later, and tie the growing stems to the support every 12 inches or so, allowing some slack for movement. Regularly removing spent blooms, a process known as deadheading, redirects the plant’s energy from seed production back into creating more flowers, promoting continuous blooming until the first frost.
Overwintering Sarah Raven Dahlia
In regions experiencing winter frosts, overwintering ‘Sarah Raven’ dahlia tubers is necessary to preserve them for the following growing season. After the first hard frost blackens the foliage, typically in late autumn, cut the stems back to about 4 to 6 inches above the ground. Wait approximately 10 days before carefully digging up the tubers to allow them to cure slightly. Gently lift the entire clump with a garden fork, taking care not to damage the delicate tubers.
Once lifted, remove as much soil as possible from the tubers, either by gently shaking or rinsing them with a hose. Allow the tubers to air dry for several days to a week in a cool, dry, well-ventilated location, away from direct sunlight and frost. This curing process helps prevent rot during storage.
Once dry, pack the tubers in a material like peat moss, vermiculite, or dry compost in a well-ventilated container such as a cardboard box, plastic bin, or paper bag. Store the containers in a cool, dark, frost-free location with temperatures ideally between 40°F and 50°F and moderate humidity. Periodically check the tubers throughout winter, removing any that show signs of rot or shriveling, and adjust humidity if needed by misting if too dry or increasing ventilation if too moist. In very mild climates (USDA Zones 8-11), tubers may be left in the ground with a thick layer of mulch for insulation.