Reed Orchids (Epidendrum genus) are popular among new and experienced plant enthusiasts. They are prized for their ease of care and tendency to produce long-lasting, continuous clusters of small, vibrant flowers. Being more forgiving than many other orchid types, they are an excellent plant to begin with. This guide details how to successfully cultivate these resilient plants in a home environment.
Ideal Environmental Conditions
Reed Orchids thrive in bright, indirect light, which significantly influences their ability to bloom repeatedly. Placing the plant in an east-facing window is often ideal, providing gentle morning sun. Keep the plant several feet away from south or west-facing windows to avoid intense afternoon heat. Insufficient light results in dark green foliage and failure to flower, while too much direct sun can quickly scorch the leaves.
The temperature range is fairly tolerant, performing best when daytime temperatures stay between 65°F and 80°F. A slight drop in temperature at night is important for stimulating flowering, ideally falling 10 to 15 degrees cooler than the daytime high. Consistent warmth promotes vigorous growth.
Humidity should be kept in the moderate range (50% to 70%), mimicking their natural tropical habitat. This moisture can be maintained by placing the orchid on a humidity tray filled with pebbles and water, ensuring the pot does not sit directly in the water. Grouping the orchid with other plants also helps create a localized microclimate.
Substrate and Hydration Management
Standard potting soil is unsuitable for Reed Orchids because it retains too much moisture and restricts air circulation, leading to root rot. The physical medium must be very fast-draining and open, allowing air to reach the root system, regardless of whether the species is terrestrial or epiphytic. A specialized orchid mix containing components like medium-grade fir bark, charcoal, perlite, or coco coir is highly recommended for container growing.
Watering involves soaking the pot thoroughly until water flows freely from the drainage holes, ensuring the entire root mass is saturated. Frequency is determined by how quickly the medium dries out, which is typically once or twice per week. Let the top inch or two of the medium become nearly dry between waterings to prevent the roots from remaining constantly soggy.
Repotting is necessary every one to three years, or when the potting mix begins to decompose and compromise drainage. Select a container only slightly larger than the current one, as orchids prefer to be somewhat root-bound. Repotting should ideally be done when new root growth is just beginning, allowing the plant to quickly establish itself in the fresh medium.
Feeding and Pruning for Continuous Blooms
Reed Orchids are relatively heavy feeders, requiring regular fertilization to support their frequent blooming. Apply a balanced, water-soluble orchid fertilizer, such as a 20-20-20 formula, with almost every watering during the active growing season. The “weakly, weekly” rule is highly effective, meaning the fertilizer is diluted to a quarter or half of the strength recommended on the package instructions.
During winter or periods of reduced growth, reduce feeding significantly, perhaps to once a month, to prevent mineral salt buildup. Every few weeks, flush the potting medium with plain water to wash away accumulating salts, which can damage the delicate root tips. This consistent nutrient supply supports the continuous production of the reed-like canes.
Reed orchids produce flowers from the apex of a mature cane, and once a cane has finished blooming, it will not flower again from that point. Spent canes should not be immediately removed because they remain green and continue to store energy and nutrients for the rest of the plant. Pruning should focus on removing canes that have turned completely brown or yellowed, cutting them cleanly at the base to encourage new growths, known as leads, to emerge.
The spent flower spike itself can be cut back once all the blooms have faded. This encourages the plant to focus its energy on developing new growth that will lead to the next flush of flowers. Occasionally, old canes may produce small plantlets called keikis, which can be removed and repotted once they develop a few roots of their own.