The Red Crassula, often identified as Crassula capitella ‘Campfire,’ is a striking succulent prized for its vibrant, propeller-shaped leaves that transition from lime green to brilliant scarlet. This South African native uses its fleshy leaves to store water, making it extremely resilient and well-suited for gardeners seeking low-maintenance but visually dramatic plants. The plant’s common names, such as ‘Fire Crassula’ or ‘Red Flames,’ directly refer to the fiery coloration it achieves under specific environmental conditions. Its compact, spreading growth habit makes it an excellent choice for rock gardens, container displays, or as a colorful groundcover in warmer climates.
Essential Environmental Needs
Achieving the vibrant red coloration that defines this plant depends entirely on providing sufficient light exposure. The plant requires full sun to develop its intense scarlet hues, as the color change is a biological response to light stress. While it can survive in partial shade, the leaves will remain primarily green, and the plant may stretch out, a condition known as etiolation. A minimum of six hours of bright sunlight daily is recommended to maintain a dense form and vivid color.
The Red Crassula prefers warm environments, thriving with optimal temperatures generally between 68°F and 86°F. It is not tolerant of hard frost and will suffer damage or cease growth if temperatures consistently drop below 41°F. If you live in an area with freezing winters, the plant should be grown in a container that can be moved indoors for protection. This succulent requires a potting medium that drains quickly to prevent root saturation, such as a specialized cactus or succulent mix amended with coarse sand, perlite, or pumice.
Watering Techniques and Seasonal Care
The most common mistake in caring for the Red Crassula is overwatering, which quickly leads to root rot. The correct approach is the “soak and dry” method, where you water the plant thoroughly until water runs out of the drainage holes, then wait until the soil is completely dry before watering again. This cycle ensures the roots receive moisture while also experiencing a necessary period of dryness.
Seasonal changes dictate the watering frequency because the plant’s growth rate fluctuates. During the active growing seasons of spring and fall, watering may be necessary every one to two weeks, depending on the heat and humidity. In contrast, during the winter, when the plant enters a period of reduced growth, water must be significantly reduced or nearly stopped entirely. Excess moisture during this cooler, dormant period is particularly damaging and is the primary cause of fungal issues. A diluted, low-nitrogen liquid fertilizer can be applied monthly during the spring and summer to support growth without inhibiting the red leaf color.
Propagation Methods
The Red Crassula is easily multiplied using either stem or leaf cuttings. For stem cuttings, a healthy segment should be cleanly cut from the parent plant using a sterile tool. After making the cut, the segment must be allowed to dry in a shaded, well-ventilated area for several days until a protective callus forms over the wound. This callousing process is essential as it prevents the cutting from absorbing too much water and rotting when planted. Once the cut end is dry and firm, the stem can be inserted into lightly moistened, well-draining soil. Leaf cuttings involve gently twisting a healthy leaf off the stem, allowing it to callous for a few days, and then laying it on top of the soil. Root development can take several weeks to a few months before a new plant becomes established.
Troubleshooting Common Issues
Root rot is the most serious threat to the Red Crassula and is typically identified by soft, yellowing leaves that drop prematurely, even when the soil feels moist. If this occurs, immediately cease watering and, in severe cases, unpot the plant to remove all affected, mushy roots before repotting in fresh, dry soil. This reactive measure is necessary to save a plant suffering from the fungal pathogens that thrive in consistently wet conditions.
Mealybugs are the most common pest, appearing as small, white, cottony masses usually found nestled in the leaf axils or on the undersides of the leaves. These insects feed on the plant’s sap and can quickly weaken it. Small infestations can be treated by dabbing the pests directly with a cotton swab soaked in rubbing alcohol, which dissolves their protective waxy coating. For larger infestations, an insecticidal soap or a systemic treatment may be necessary, but early detection is the best defense against these persistent pests.