Purple orchids captivate with their elegant blooms and diverse shades, from soft lavender to deep violet. These stunning plants bring exotic beauty to any indoor space, a favored choice for plant enthusiasts. Their vibrant coloration makes them a focal point, adding sophistication to homes.
Understanding Purple Orchid Varieties
The term “purple orchid” encompasses numerous varieties across several genera, not a single species. The diversity in purple coloration stems from various pigments and genetic factors. Popular purple-hued genera include Phalaenopsis (moth orchids), Vanda, Cattleya, and Dendrobium.
Phalaenopsis (moth orchids): Widely available, with varieties featuring striking purple patterns, sometimes edged in white.
Vanda orchids: Recognized for large, showy flowers, often displaying vibrant purple hues and intricate markings.
Cattleya (corsage orchids): Feature large, fragrant blooms ranging from light lavender to deep magenta.
Dendrobium orchids: Offer a wide array of purple forms, from mini varieties to those with splashed petals.
Essential Care for Purple Orchids
Light Requirements
Correct light is essential for purple orchids to thrive and produce beautiful blooms. Most orchids prefer bright, indirect light, requiring at least six hours daily. An east-facing window is often ideal for gentle morning light. South or west-facing windows may require sheer curtains to diffuse intense afternoon sun, as too much direct light can scorch leaves, causing white spots. Insufficient light results in dark green leaves and no flowering.
Watering Practices
Proper watering is crucial for orchid health, depending on the potting medium and orchid type. Water orchids as their potting medium begins to dry out, typically every 1-2 weeks. Thoroughly drench the plant, allowing water to run freely from drainage holes, ensuring all excess water drains away to prevent root rot. Use room temperature water and avoid softened water, which contains high salt levels.
Temperature and Humidity
Orchids thrive in conditions mimicking their tropical origins, preferring consistent temperatures and high humidity. Most orchids do well with daytime temperatures between 65-80°F (18-27°C) and a 10-15°F drop at night. Maintaining 50-70% humidity is beneficial. In drier indoor environments, increase humidity by placing the pot on a pebble tray filled with water, ensuring the pot does not sit directly in the water, or by using a humidifier.
Potting and Repotting
Orchids need specialized potting mixes for drainage and air circulation. Common mediums include fir bark, sphagnum moss, perlite, and horticultural charcoal. Repotting is necessary every 1-2 years, or when the medium breaks down, leading to poor air circulation and root rot. Repot after blooming when new growth appears, selecting a pot slightly larger than the root ball. Remove the orchid from its old pot, trim dead or rotted roots, and gently place it in the new pot with fresh medium.
Fertilization
Orchids benefit from regular fertilization, though they are not heavy feeders. A balanced, water-soluble orchid-specific fertilizer is recommended at a diluted strength. A common practice is “weekly, weakly,” applying a quarter to half-strength solution every week during the active growing season. Alternatively, a full-strength fertilizer can be applied once a month. Water thoroughly before fertilizing to prevent root burn, and flush the medium with plain water every fourth watering to prevent salt buildup.
Troubleshooting Common Problems
Orchids can show signs of distress, often related to environmental conditions. Yellowing leaves can indicate issues like overwatering, underwatering, or nutrient deficiencies; older leaves also naturally yellow and drop. Root rot, characterized by mushy, black, or brown roots, results from overwatering or poorly draining media. Address root rot by removing affected roots and repotting in fresh, well-draining medium.
Shriveled pseudobulbs, common in orchids like Cattleya or Oncidium, often signal underwatering or root issues preventing water absorption. Common pests like mealybugs and scale insects appear as cottony masses or waxy bumps. Manage these by wiping them with rubbing alcohol or using horticultural oils. Bud blast, where flower buds shrivel and drop, can be caused by sudden environmental changes, extreme temperatures, low humidity, or improper watering.
Encouraging Reblooming
After blooming, an orchid enters a resting period to gather energy for future flowers. Encouraging reblooming involves specific environmental triggers. For many Phalaenopsis orchids, a crucial step is providing cooler night temperatures, typically between 55-65°F (13-18°C), for several weeks. This temperature drop mimics their natural habitat and stimulates new flower spike development.
Maintaining consistent bright, indirect light remains important during this resting phase. Some growers adjust fertilization, using a higher phosphorus content to promote flowering once new growth begins. After the last bloom drops, the flower spike can be cut back. This allows the plant to redirect energy into new growth, preparing it for the next flowering cycle.